Dreaming of a Life of Ease
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There are many varations between 5.10a and 5.10d that access the upper pitch. This climb is to the left of a right facing dihedral on the arete. Once you gain the belay keep going up on the arete. The second pitch is clearly the crux at 5.11c with lots of cool moves over a bulge. Hidden holds will stuff most onsight attempts.
Bolts and a few nasty pitons from long ago. Bolted anchor to chains at the top.
By Ian Z
From: Los Angeles, CA
Aug 21, 2012
The first pitch is a fun 5.10d climb.
Aug 17, 2015
Second pitch is worth climbing for the 5.11 climber tryin to get stronger for the 12s at the wall. It's a little less pumpy and more techy than Abo/Psycho wussy, which is a nice change of pace. You can also approach with the 5.9 to the anchors and then go up and right onto the corner, following the fairly obvious bolt line.
I recommend unclipping and cleaning the first draw after the anchors once the following draw is placed and clipped, to reduce the drag, since you are in a good resting position before the crux sequence.