This tower is situated in the spectacular Arch Canyon very close to the well known Dreamspeaker Tower. The route up Dreamspeaker climbs the north face, making it a good climb in warm conditions. The area has many indian ruins.
There are two alternatives to get to the base of this tower. One can drive the very rough four wheel track up Arch Canyon for about 5 miles, or drive in 3.1 miles on the well mantained rim road and descend from there. Here are both approches:
1. Arch Canyon Approach. From Blanding, go south for 2 miles and turn right onto Rt 95. Drive 14.2 miles to a right turn up an open valley. Go 2.5 miles on a good dirt road to where Arch Canyon and the four wheel high clearance starts. Drive about 5 miles until below and midway between both Dreamspeaker and Dreamcatcher. It takes about 30 mins steep hike/scramble to reach the base of the towers.
2. Rim Approach. This was used on the eventual first ascent of Dreamcatcher,however the number one approach was use on the first attempt (too cold). From the turn off south of Blanding onto route 95, drive 19.4 miles (5.2 miles past the valley turn off that leads to the mouth of Arch Canyon) to a road on the right with a large map board and self fee station. Drive 3.1 miles on a car friendly dirt road to good camping area just before where the road has a steep rocky section. From here, walk a short distance northeast to the rim of Arch Canyon and great views of both towers. Follow the rim west for about 20 minutes to where the mesa juts out towards the towers. Not far from the end on the north side, use a fixed 60m rope on a good tree above a wide crack and slab. Rap its length to ledges, and walk down to the right for about a couple of hundred yards and use another fixed line for 100'. Then across to the foot of the towers.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dreamcatcher Tower:
The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system. P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then...[more]Browse More Classics in UT