Dream Tower Rock Climbing
Area between the Gallery Wall and The Sponge
. Contains four routes of moderate quality. Similar angle to the Sponge, sunny in the afternoons.
From Left to Right: Hail Dancer
5.9 East Coast Dreams
Animal Magnetism 5.11d
Easiest to approach Hail Dancer from the Sponge. Continue right from the Sponge to the base.
For the other three climbs best to cross the small branch of the stream before crossing the final log bridge at the big meadow. Head across the meadow and cross the main stream to the base of the cliff. These climbs are about 50 yards to the right of the Sponge.
Climbing Season For the Las Conchas area.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Dream Tower
East Coast Dreams 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a NM
: Jemez Valley Area
: ... : Dream Tower
East Coast Dreams would be a good climb if it weren't for a screwed-up start and some sketchy flakes on an easier section midway up.Start up unprotected slab, or go up left trending easy bushy gully.Clip the first bolt, make a long reach to a positive pocket, and gun it through the steep section past 2 more bolts. Traverse right, using some scary-looking flakes, where you'll join the easier upper section of the center bolted line (Sanctuarium, 5.12b/c). Mantle, step left, and c...[more] Browse More Classics in NM