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This route on the apron is a link-up of the best pitches of two routes: Unfinished Symphony and Dream On. 3 pitches of 5.10 slab lead up to a 5.10b traverse and then a 2 pitch shallow corner (10d) finishing with a 5.11b slab crux pitch. The route is runout in places but generally well protected. Like a number of other routes on the apron, there are a few rusty quarter-inch bolts that add some spice to the route.
A handful of cams up to # 2 Camalot and 8 draws. Double up on small cams (blue to yellow Aliens) and nuts for shallow pin scars in the 10d corners.
Nov 22, 2008
I did this when there were old bolts. Latest report I've heard is that these have all be replaced with new stainless gear. Still runout though!
By Monica Jones
Aug 7, 2010
Pretty spicy. A little runout, only a pin and a bolt on the 10a pitch. The 10d corner system was really cool. Great route.