#2 camalot works wonderfully. Also, watch the loose stuff. Most of the loose stuff seems wobbly only, not full on loose, but...
By Lee Gitlin Jun 17, 2004 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
This face requires a lot of technique. Not very pumpy, not much cranking. Some body position needed to make use of side pulls. Bail left to the 5.8 arete if you get stumped on the last two bolts. The belay area is frightening -- a 5.2 slab where a misstep will cause you to tumble into the talus field. We belayed clipped in to the tree just east of the bolt line.
Best 10a in the canyon, just my opinion though.....
By Lee Gitlin Sep 27, 2004 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Dream Slate is a good climb, worth the short hike up a boulderfield. In my book, all that keeps it from being a 3-star is some loose/wobbly rock, particularly if you are left of centerline (looking up). Otherwise, the route is sustained, with an interesting sequence over a flake. Bring your camalot to protect at the flake, but avoid placing at the right side of the flake (again, looking up), since the rock is cracked and hollow sounding there. A nice, airy exposed finish completes a relatively long route.
Did this one again today, and I feel it deserves mentioning to stay off that edge (arete) at the end of the route. The climb definitely is funner, more sustained, and 5.10a, on that face. Naturally, people go left as that is easier, but that avoids the crux.
Did this one twice today, once going left and once staying right. The right path at the top is much more fun, with two really great moves. The left path is just easy climbing and skipping the last bolt to get the chains, but no fun.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Aug 6, 2008 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Is there a better 10a in BCC? Not pumpy just thin and technical. Instead of placing the cam just make one more move. This section is the easiest part of the climb and has the best holds. I placed it my first time only to ask myself why as soon as I made the next easy move to the bolt...
Didn't see the loose rock. Maybe it is off to the right though.
Wonderful polished limestone with superb side pulls. Definitely a balance-y climb with a superb view of Outside Corner. Some loose rock though not quite falling out (just a few holds that shake disturbingly and encourage a second choice. Belay isn't great but anchoring would definitely keep you safe and sane.
it must be something really wonderful to sit between two quartzite routes, at a quartzite crag, in a primarily quartzite canyon.
i did hear the limestone face climbing at the top is second to none.
By Ryan Stott From: Salt Lake City, UT Jul 30, 2010 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a R
Fun climb with an exciting run-out if you aren't climbing this as a TR climb. I didn't have any cams for protection between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. If you fall while clipping at the 3rd bolt, you will likely hit the ground unless your belayer is really good at taking up the slack. Make sure you are solid at leading 10a before trying this without trad protection before the 3rd bolt.
Also, why do so many people here refer to limestone on this wall? Quartzite is the only rock there.
By Charlie S From: Ogden, UT Sep 3, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
#2 BD works just fine for the flake. It is very well protected and is actually a sport route, not trad.
By Kyle Blase From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 25, 2011
The cam placement is not necessary unless you are a very nervous leader. The move near the placement is easy and a 5.10 climber should have no problem. Great route and overall a pretty easy 5.10.
By Garrett C From: SL,UT May 17, 2014 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
Fun, technical and balance-y. Loved it. #2 is solid in the flake, but honestly make one more move and you can clip the bolt.