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 ADVANCED
Narcolepsy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anuresis T,TR 
Chimney Sweep T 
Don't Jump Back Crack T,TR 
Dream Slate T,TR 
Dreamscape S,TR 
Ethiopian Kid T 
Involuntary Release T,TR 
Mr. Sandman T,TR 
Narcolepsy T,TR 
Narcosis T,TR 
Suture Fancy T,TR 
Turn Of The Sentry T 
Up A Cliff Without a Ladder T,TR 

Dream Slate 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sargent, Mike Kurlich 1993
Page Views: 4,802
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Fun on Dream Slate on a summer evening.

Description 

This is on the far west end of the Narcolepsy Walls. It is a bolted line on a North face. It protects well and is a fun edging climb

Protection 

A 2 bolt anchor up top, and 6 draws for the face. Bring a medium cam for the flake between 2 and 3.


Photos of Dream Slate Slideshow Add Photo
Julia, going for the clip.
Julia, going for the clip.
Dream Slate
BETA PHOTO: Dream Slate
Another edging climb, another photo of Jeff enjoying the cliff.
Another edging climb, another photo of Jeff enjoyi...
Cranking a way on <a href='/v/dream-slate/105740204'>Dream Slate</a> 5.10a
Cranking a way on Dream Slate 5.10a

Comments on Dream Slate Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2014
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 14, 2004

#2 camalot works wonderfully. Also, watch the loose stuff. Most of the loose stuff seems wobbly only, not full on loose, but...
By Lee Gitlin
Jun 17, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This face requires a lot of technique. Not very pumpy, not much cranking. Some body position needed to make use of side pulls. Bail left to the 5.8 arete if you get stumped on the last two bolts. The belay area is frightening -- a 5.2 slab where a misstep will cause you to tumble into the talus field. We belayed clipped in to the tree just east of the bolt line.
By Leroy Fielding
Jun 24, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Best 10a in the canyon, just my opinion though.....
By Lee Gitlin
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Dream Slate is a good climb, worth the short hike up a boulderfield. In my book, all that keeps it from being a 3-star is some loose/wobbly rock, particularly if you are left of centerline (looking up). Otherwise, the route is sustained, with an interesting sequence over a flake. Bring your camalot to protect at the flake, but avoid placing at the right side of the flake (again, looking up), since the rock is cracked and hollow sounding there. A nice, airy exposed finish completes a relatively long route.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 31, 2005

Did this one again today, and I feel it deserves mentioning to stay off that edge (arete) at the end of the route. The climb definitely is funner, more sustained, and 5.10a, on that face. Naturally, people go left as that is easier, but that avoids the crux.

Still Love this climb.
By Bill Bones
Feb 5, 2007

Always a great climb, Must do for Limestone lovers.
By Ryan Peterson
From: North Salt Lake, Utah
Jun 30, 2007

Did this one twice today, once going left and once staying right. The right path at the top is much more fun, with two really great moves. The left path is just easy climbing and skipping the last bolt to get the chains, but no fun.
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Aug 6, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Is there a better 10a in BCC? Not pumpy just thin and technical. Instead of placing the cam just make one more move. This section is the easiest part of the climb and has the best holds. I placed it my first time only to ask myself why as soon as I made the next easy move to the bolt...

Didn't see the loose rock. Maybe it is off to the right though.
By Scott U
May 27, 2009

Very fun climb..I went too far left to avoid a hard move that i couldn't quite get...i was bummed because it is too hard to get back over....work through the moves and don't go left
By Ty Meadows
From: Moab, UT
Jun 29, 2009

Great limestone face climbing toward top. Also, very nice exposure and view. #1 cam for flake.
By Rachelle J. Ross
Jul 13, 2009

Wonderful polished limestone with superb side pulls. Definitely a balance-y climb with a superb view of Outside Corner. Some loose rock though not quite falling out (just a few holds that shake disturbingly and encourage a second choice. Belay isn't great but anchoring would definitely keep you safe and sane.
By Brian in SLC
Jul 13, 2009

I believe the rock type is quartzite, not limestone.
By grk10vq
Administrator
Jul 13, 2009

wonderful polished limestone. . .

it must be something really wonderful to sit between two quartzite routes, at a quartzite crag, in a primarily quartzite canyon.

i did hear the limestone face climbing at the top is second to none.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 30, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Fun climb with an exciting run-out if you aren't climbing this as a TR climb. I didn't have any cams for protection between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. If you fall while clipping at the 3rd bolt, you will likely hit the ground unless your belayer is really good at taking up the slack. Make sure you are solid at leading 10a before trying this without trad protection before the 3rd bolt.

Also, why do so many people here refer to limestone on this wall? Quartzite is the only rock there.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

#2 BD works just fine for the flake. It is very well protected and is actually a sport route, not trad.
By Kyle Blase
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 25, 2011

The cam placement is not necessary unless you are a very nervous leader. The move near the placement is easy and a 5.10 climber should have no problem. Great route and overall a pretty easy 5.10.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun, technical and balance-y. Loved it. #2 is solid in the flake, but honestly make one more move and you can clip the bolt.