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Dream Realized 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Brian Hestetune on Oct 16, 2011
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Description 

This is the furthest climb up canyon in the area. Scramble up ~30' to a belay ledge with chain anchors. The climb follows the beautiful arete nearly to the top. There are two lines from the belay, and I am not sure which is the original. Both lines converge about a 1/3 of the way up

Start Variation 1: Go right of the tree off the belay. The bolts are right above you on the vertical face. After the third bolt (if you follow the crack system), there is a runout (~15-20 ft?). There is a spot for a BD#2 cam if the runout bothers you (you can also traverse over to the arete to the nearby bolts). The next bolt is on the slabby area on the face of the arete (join up with var. 2). You have another small runout. The bolt line continues up the arete. Near the top, you will see an ancient rusty bolt on a bulge. Don't climb up to that, chain anchors are to the right.

Start Variation 2(Original?): The bolts looked older? Off the belay, go left around the tree and hop on the arete. Go straight up the arete with the same finish as described above (avoiding the 15-20ft runout with 2 more bolts).

A 60 m will get you down to the belay anchors. With a single rope you must lower to the belay anchors. DO NOT try to lower to the ground.

This is an awesome long not greasy soft 10a. The crux comes a few bolts up from the slabby runout section. Excellent views from the belay station and from the climb. I enjoyed the right start over the left start. The right is more of jug/vertical climbing, with the left being more slab. Both felt about the same difficulty.


Protection 

Var 1: 9 bolts
Var 2: 11 bolts

Chain Anchors



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By Ryan s Nelson
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Jun 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I agree with Brian about the right start being the preferred start. As mentioned in the description a small run out at the semi-crack section of the right start is significantly decreased by clipping the bolt out to the left on a blank face (while standing in the crack). This is my favorite 10 at at the crag but is slightly tedious with the intermediate belay chains etc.