All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (13) Mt Wilson > Aeolian Wall

Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers

Name: Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers
Rating: 2.7

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in Aeolian Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aeolian Wall (Original Route) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
	Cactus Connection T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cactus Joe's Connection T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dream of Wild Cheeseburgers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Evolution Arete T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1
	Gift of the Wind Gods T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Inti Watana T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jedi Mind Tricks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
	Original Sin, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Pagan Sacrifice T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Resolution Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
	Salami Wand Kenobi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c C2 R
	Taco Tuesday T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
	Thanatos T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
	Wicked, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Woman of Mountain Dreams T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 2400 ft (727 m), 18 pitches, Grade V
FA:	Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Sept 2016
Page Views:	5,458 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Sam Boyce on Sep 28, 2016
Admins:	Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A long and sustained route up one of the most obvious features in red rock. With a keen eye it is visible from town. It is the easiest route up the aeolian wall and one of only a couple sub-5.10 routes that summits the mountain. It has a lot of fun and interesting climbing but has a few sections of extremely mossy rock that detract from the overall experience. Even still it is a worthy adventure that will clean up with traffic.

P1 5.9 200’ This is described as the “approach pitch” on the description for the Original Rote. Head up easy face into a funky and mossy corner with a hand crack, possibly heady at times but the gear is there. Continue up the corner and turn left into the easy gully and continue up to a huge tree to belay.

P2 Low 5th 60’ A short low 5th boulder problem leads to a 4th class scramble up to the base of the main wall.

P3 5.7+ 140’ Scramble up the ramp to your left, then into a corner with a wide crack. Funky stemming leads to some easy face to the base of a flare.

P4 5.9+ 100’ Head straight up the strenuous flare (crux of the route), continuing straight up the featured wide crack and hand crack. Step right at some overlapping cracks, belay at a small ledge below a shallow corner.

P5 5.9 100’ Straight up the crack a short ways, then step right into the shallow right facing corner. Stem up the corner to some chockstones, face climbing out left avoids the stones. Continue straight up to a ledge next to a mossy wide crack.

P6 5.9+ 100’ THE MOSS PITCH; step right for some easy but inobvious face climbing through the moss (5.6), then step back left into a short chimney, continue up the crack to a mossy roof (5.9+), a hand crack above leads to a creative stance below the next big roof (Dont worry most of the moss is done with after this pitch)

P7 5.9+ 100’ THE BULGE; Stem straight up, some committing moves are required before your first piece, then pull the bulge on sinker hand jams. A splitter hand crack above leads to a finger crack bulge. Continue another 30’ to a stance below a bush.

P8 5.9 150’ Step left and climb easily around a tree. Continue up the corner past a ledge (optional belay here) to an uncomfortable belay up in the chimney.

P9 5.8+ 140’ Continue up the chimney, eventually turning into face climbing around a wide crack, belay at a stance below a big gaping flare.

P10 5.9R 180’ Climb right off the belay into a seam that runs the length of the flare, this is runout with funky gear and isn't the easiest climbing. This feeds into a long chimney groove after about 40ft. It looked possible to climb the flare as well. Follow the chimney all the way up to a massive chock stone, then squeeze through a small tunnel to a hidden belay ledge behind it.

P11 5.9 200’ Another rope stretcher. Head up the squeeze chimney, a little runout but pretty secure. Chimney past a small chockstone (a horizontal directional keeps the rope away from it) and continue up the corner past a short OW, easy flaring chimney moves lead you up to one final roof. Belay at some giant boulders on a ledge.

P12 5.7 120’ Mostly easy scrambling. Head to the left side of the gully to avoid the brush, a short and easy finger crack leads you up to the bivy ledge notch where inti watana tops out.

At this point you are below p15 of Resolution Arete as per the george bell topo

P13-18 Follow res arete to the top

Descent- The best decent off wilson is oak creek. The only bail option that keeps your rack intact is to rappel inti.

Location

The giant laser straight crack system that runs parallel and to the right of Inti Watana. Approach as for inti watana. When you get to the inti gully, keep in the main gully system that heads up to woman of mt dreams. After a short bit of elevation gain you'll see a ledge with a giant cave on the right and an obvious black water streak down the middle. The first pitch climbs a hand crack to the left of this streak, this pitch is also described as the "approach" pitch for the original route. Approach will take approx. 1.5 hrs for the average party.