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Mother's Crag
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Dream Girl T 
mike's route T 
Motorcycle Mama T 
not named yet T 
Yo Mama T 

Dream Girl 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Jonathan O'Brien, Mike Trono
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Oct 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: find the roof to the right of motorcycle mama (the...

Description 

Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths. Jam/ lieback up to the roof, traverse left under the roof(crux) and gain the perfect vertical hand crack that continues to the top of the cliff.

This route is named for Jasmine Farro, (my dreamgirl ;-).


Location 

Location: Find Motorcycle Mama's gigantic l. facing corner. Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths.

Descent: On top, work your way up and left to a large boulder and tree anchor, pull your partner up and then head skier's right to the healthy pine tree rappel on top of motorcycle mama. One 60 m rope rappel.


Protection 

single rack to 3''. double .75 - 3'' camalot size. recommend 8-10 two-foot length slings. i did not bring stoppers or hexes, this thing swallows cams the entire way. G rated pro.



Photos of Dream Girl Slideshow Add Photo
Here is a closeup of the route.  The route is a little farther right of Motorcycle Mama than I expected when reading the description.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a closeup of the route. The route is a li...
Comments on Dream Girl Add Comment
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By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Apr 9, 2012
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Great super easy beginner route, great pro. Potential for major rope drag, so put long runner at top of crack before traverse under roof. Based on other Red Rocks easy trad, I'd say its easier than Solar Slab Gully. IMO easier than 5.4. Great trad route for first lead. I used Metolius power cam #0, BDC4 1x .5, 2 x #1, 1x #1, Anchor in small horizontal crack BDC4 .3, .4, and Met power cam #1. Approach from wash directly below Dream girl. Needs cairns.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
May 21, 2013

Great comments, thanks, I agree that you want to extend your draws down low, I think that a leader that navigates this route with no drag, builds a safe anchor, safely brings up their second, and then negotiates a safe rappel is ready to move on to whatever the next step is in their mind. I learned to climb in the Gunks, a community of climbers like no other that supports beginners learning in a happy, safe way and I have tried to add a few routes to Red Rock for the beginners with that in mind, an attempt to "give back" some of that gunks energy! Check out Adventure Guppies at Coco in Calico for a chance to practice a long pitch followed by bringing up your second and then two rappels, extend a few of those draws as well to avoid drag and I recommend doing this without the 70 meter rope as a training option. A friend of mine is currently installing some 5. easy bolted climbs and we'll be sure to post as soon as they are done. Stay safe out there and have fun!


Sincerely,


jon

By Keithb00ne
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

The climb is a little farther right of Motorcycle Mama than you might expect. Scramble slightly down and across until you see the rock platform. You won't find a route at this grade level with such enjoyable climbing. Save you mid size cams for the amazing hand crack at the top.

By Ben Townsend
Apr 11, 2014

Excellent little climb. In terms of technical difficulty, it's barely fifth class, but pretty much ideal as a training opportunity for a new climber to lead on gear -- clean, featured, lots of protection options.

When approaching the crag, it's worth going a bit further up the road (or the wash) to get a straight-on view. The line of the climb is pretty obvious from that perspective, whereas it's a bit hard to see from the base, or from the left when the crag is first visible.

By Tony Whitney
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 27, 2014

I agree that this is a very fun route. It was my sport climbing partner's first trad lead, and my first lead in many years. This route protects very well. It would be a fun place to practice looking for nut placements. The only thing that makes it a little difficult for a beginning climber is that the belay at the top is out of sight of most of the climb. This makes communication difficult. Overall, very fun.