Dream Girl 5.4
| 668 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.3 [details] |
| FA: | Jonathan O'Brien, Mike Trono |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Jon O'Brien on Oct 18, 2011 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: find the roof to the right of motorcycle mama (the...
Add Photo Printer View
Description Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths. Jam/ lieback up to the roof, traverse left under the roof(crux) and gain the perfect vertical hand crack that continues to the top of the cliff. This route is named for Jasmine Farro, (my dreamgirl ;-).
Location Location: Find Motorcycle Mama's gigantic l. facing corner. Dream girl starts to the right on a nice platform below a mini-right facing corner for a few body lengths. Descent: On top, work your way up and left to a large boulder and tree anchor, pull your partner up and then head skier's right to the healthy pine tree rappel on top of motorcycle mama. One 60 m rope rappel.
Protection single rack to 3''. double .75 - 3'' camalot size. recommend 8-10 two-foot length slings. i did not bring stoppers or hexes, this thing swallows cams the entire way. G rated pro.
By William Nelson From: Cave Creek, AZ Apr 9, 2012 rating: 5.2
| Great super easy beginner route, great pro. Potential for major rope drag, so put long runner at top of crack before traverse under roof. Based on other Red Rocks easy trad, I'd say its easier than Solar Slab Gully. IMO easier than 5.4. Great trad route for first lead. I used Metolius power cam #0, BDC4 1x .5, 2 x #1, 1x #1, Anchor in small horizontal crack BDC4 .3, .4, and Met power cam #1. Approach from wash directly below Dream girl. Needs cairns. |
|