|Reed's Pinnacle Area
Every once in a while a new route is put up at a popular crag that is of good quality. One that for some reason has hidden itself, escaping the eye for decades. A line that reveals itself only when it chooses. Dream easy is one such line.
The climb consists of vertical cracks connected by sections of knobs, and face while maintaining a moderate grade. Most parties will face their greatest difficulties on the face sections leaving the security of a crack system for the insecure edges of a granite face. Or, some may have difficulty with the short chimney on pitch one. Those who are able to pull through their own personal cruxes and continue upward will be rewarded with an enjoyable four pitch climb that gains good elevation, and ends up a headwall.
Pitch 1) Ascend a short section of knobs without pro (5.8) until a left slanting ledge system is reached. Climb this ledge and head straight into a short yet ominous chimney. Easy stemming with good pro will lead you up the chimney until further upward progress is seemingly impossible. The trick here is to not get stuck deep inside the chimney. Back out to the edge of the chimney and find a huge jug up and left. Use this jug to exit the chimney (5.7) and mantle the chock stones that make up the stance for the belay at the bottom of the second pitch. Belay on gear 2-4 inches.
Pitch 2) Stem and mantle a chock stone directly off the belay and continue up the left slanting ledge system. Keep your eyes out for a small dike angling up and to the right out on the face. Traverse this dike passing a bolt. When the dike ends, connect together thin face moves up toward a tree (5.8). Traverse the top of a wide flake to the right crossing the top anchors of Duck for Cover. When the flake runs out, climb a low angle face past two bolts (5.8) to a rounded horn and a gear belay.
Pitch 3) Climb straight up a nice hand crack (5.7). Before the crack peters out, switch cracks to the left by using knobs (5.7). Gain the discontinuous crack and climb up past shaky gear to a lower angle section of high quality crack. Follow this wonderful section of hand jams as the crack angles up and to the right. Belay at a small stance from bolts.
Pitch 4) The money pitch. From the belay, step right and into a crack system with intermittent sections of hummock. Climb up this section until a passage to the right seems possible. Climb a little higher to find pro, then down climb and traverse the easy, low angle, high quality face. Gain the crack out right and climb up until good pro is found. Make a thin move left (5.8) and climb the steep, clean crack up into the headwall. An excellent lieback (5.8) past a bulge will lead you to the left and the bolted anchor.
Decent: From the top of pitch 4, make a double rope rappel back to the top of pitch 3. From the top of pitch 3, make a double rope rappel down a steep section to the top of a chimney. From the top of the chimney, rappel off bots with two ropes to the ground. You will want to step way out to the left and away from the bottom of the chimney when pulling your rope to the ground, as the chimney is a rope eater.
Between Lunatic Fringe and Reed’s Regular Route. From Lunatic Fringe, traverse the base to the left. The knobby face that marks the beginning of the route is just left of a large west facing chimney. The left slanting ledge of pitch one is visible from the ground. Start directly below the right facing flake of Duck and Cover (.11 R/X).
Single set to 4”. Bring a couple extra 2.5-3” pieces, a healthy amount of slings, and two 60m ropes.
Looking down the knobs on pitch one.
Beginning the traverse on pitch two.
From the belay looking up at the pitch three hand ...
BETA PHOTO: The route doesn't follow the obvious dihedral - yo...
Mar 24, 2012
The rating of this climb has been debated quite a bit. Some feel it to be harder than 5.8 and warranting a solid 5.9 grade.
Mar 24, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great job on spotting this line guys! My buddy and I drove up just after the biggest snow storm of the year and tried to find some dry rock... no such luck. We thought we'd warm up on an "easy 5.8" but we were in for a bit of a surprise. Much of the route was wet (snowmelt from above and water seaping from every crack). With that being said, this is a GREAT route that is varied in the type of climbing required.
P1 - very cool chimney exit move. That was dry and seemed like 5.8.
P2 - the face traverse was very wet and therefore very heady. Can't comment on difficulty b/c of water. I stopped to belay at the top of Duck and Run, allowing us to use the two bolt anchor. I recommend this because a 60m rope makes it to the top of p3 no problem.
P3 - 5.6 section was very wet and therefore heady. The "5.8" slab move above seemed more like 5.9. It was dry. The short corner above seemed like 5.7 as advertised.
P4 - this was certainly the money pitch! WOW, nice find guys! Unfortunately, the marjority of the crack was wet and therefore, the pitch seemed as hard as many 5.10 cracks I've climbed. However, if it were dry, I'd say it is more consistent with Valley 5.9 than 5.8.
If the consensus is that the route is 5.8, then it is a stout one, but not completely off base... IMHO.
Thanks for all the good work in putting this route up! We certainly enjoyed it and I will be back to climb it again.
| || My buddy following p4 of Dream Easy. |
|By Patrick M.|
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 7, 2012
For the pitch 1, I just want to clarify that you go to the small chimney on the left, not the huge one on the right.
|By Sara Ann|
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A 70m rope rappel will easily get you from the top of p4 to the p3 anchor. You need doubles for the other two raps. From the p3 anchor, you can easily rap to the p2 anchor, then to the ground.
I was going to rate Dream Easy 5.8+, but I climbed Bishop's Terrace on the same trip and would rate them the same. I don't think Dream Easy had any moves on it harder than Bishop's Terrace's cruxes, but it definitely wasn't easier!
Thanks for putting up this route, I had a great time on it :) :) :)
|By Cimbing Ivy|
Nov 28, 2012
Wow, thanks for spotting the route. Awesome varied climbing has a bit of everything that runs the whole gamut.
P1 - have to agree the short chimney that looks unassuming from the ground does feel pretty ominous when you're working your way up. the beta for the jug is right on and you can place a good piece in a small slot underneath the roof to protect the move.
P2 - i actually really love this pitch (as much as P4 the money pitch). wild and sweet. i choose to traverse right after the first bolt before heading straight up to the tree. not sure if that's the intended line? straight up off the bolt will go but i found the traverse move very delicate, balancy and thrilling. it feels closer to 9+ but then i maybe off route on that section?... the traverse on top of the knife blade flake with no gear was awesome!
P3 - wish the corner hand crack section were 3 times longer! :)
P4 - wow good to the last drop lieback moves. sustained but just with enough baby knobs and dimples on the face to give some breathers and makes it all possible.
Descend - just wanted to point out for those of you don't want any extra rope management: you can make a single 60m rappel from the top of P4 to the 2-bolt anchor at the top of P3. tie knots!! it just barely makes it to the anchor and i had to reach down to clip in before letting the rope ends passed through my rappel device. it is two more double-ropes rappel as described to reach the ground from the top of P3.
so is it 5.8? if the consensus says so. it's a very stout one in old school style for sure.
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solid 5.9. And SUPER fun.
|By Zachary W|
From: San Francisco, California
Jan 30, 2014
This route is pretty gnar for 5.8. I'd say the cruxes on all but the first pitch are 5.9. Pro is funky in places, and there's a good bit of loose rock. Especially the last pitch is very loose.
It's a pretty great adventure, but not one I'd recommend to most. If you're a solid 5.9 climber and looking for something exciting and off the beaten track, you'll get a kick out of this.
I linked P1 and 2 with a 70m rope, stopping at the bolted anchors above Duck for Cover. We then climbed (a slightly longer) P3 and 4 stopping at the bolted belays. Rapped in 3 <60m raps.