BETA PHOTO: Upper and Lower Dream Canyon Modified from origin...
This is another great wall. Some of the routes are fully bolted, some require a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and some are a bit runout.
The first five routes start up the approach gully left of Wrinkles In Time
. Bring gear for belay anchors at the start, or climb the approach gully as part of the pitch. You can also access these routes via rappel (two ropes) from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome.
8, 1p, bolts.
B. Sea of Dreams
11-, 1p, bolts.
C. Flying Vee
10a R-X, 1p, bolt, pin, & gear.
D. Soul on Ice
11 PG, 1p, bolts.
E. Dry Ice
, 11 PG, 1p, bolts & gear.
The next route starts at the base of the approach gully.
F. Stained Glass
, 11-, 2p. P1: 11-, bolts & gear. P2: 10-11, bolts, bolt anchor.
Right of the approach gully.
G. Wrinkles In Time
, 9, 2p. P1: 9, bolts & gear. P2: 7, bolts +/- gear.
, 2 p, 11-, P1: 11a, bolts & gear. P2: 10-, bolts & gear.
I. Tales of Power
, 11, 2p. P1: 11b, bolts. P2: 11-, bolts.
J. Journey to Ixtlan
11-, 1p, bolts.
K. Red Limit 12c A0
L. Laidback Nightmare, V1-2.
LM. Shared Dreams, V3-4.
M. Simone Has Dreams
, V4-5, 20', bolts or TR or boulder.
N. A Brief History of Time
9, 1p, bolts & gear.
O. Unknown between Brief History & Timeless
, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
P. Timeless aka New Route Right of A Brief History
, 9+, 1p, 85', bolts.
Q. Route between Timeless and Gully Washer
, 8, 1p, 40', bolts.
R. Gully Washer
9, 1p, bolts.
S. Wet Dreams
10-, 1p, bolt, TR.
On the far north end of Dream Canyon, on the east side. It's situated just to the right of Oceanic Wall and to the left of Lost Angel wall.
From the upper end of the parking area, walk west about 150' down the road and take the trail on the left, next to a fence. Follow this trail down toward the creek, next to a split-rail fence. Near the bottom, you'll pass Thunder Point and the Icon. At the bottom, right next to the creek, you'll get to Oceanic Wall. Climb up left on talus on the right side of Oceanic Wall. You'll get to Dream Dome by the the route Wrinkles In Time. Approach time: 15 minutes.
The first five routes can be accessed via a two-rope rappel from one of the trees at the top of Dream Dome. Look for a trail cutting off to the left (blocked by small logs and branches) as you're walking down the main trail toward the creek. A short walk on this trail takes you to the top of Dream Dome above the routes Dreamscape
and Sea of Dreams
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
23 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Dream Dome
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dream Dome
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dream Dome:
Flying Vee 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
X Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Soul on Ice 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Red Limit 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Dream Dome
Red Limit 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b CO
: ... : Dream Dome
Begin 30 feet right from Tales of Power at a left-facing corner. Climb easily past three bolts, then make very difficult moves into a shallow dihedral. Tips lieback up the dihedral (12a), gain an undercling and master a second crux (12c A0, 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet). This has steep, strenuous, thin, excellent rock all the way. Who will redpoint this beauty? I could not pull it off, but I'm just an old guy....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
The Dream Dome. Photo: Bob Horan
View from the base of 'Wrinkles in Time', Oct. '09...
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2003
A note on the approach. We made the error of descending all the way into the canyon to climb Dreamscape. It is a tricky approach to the left routes from here involving some unroped climbing up a narrow slot. Much easier to rappel to the routes (from trees) which are only about 5 minutes from the car! Our first time in there and it can be confusing.
By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 17, 2009
It seems there are two or three more bolted lines past the Gully Wash/Wet Dreams bolts now. I only had time for one and it was well bolted, and a really fun moderate (5.9+-5.10a) route. It was not the next one over from those bolts but the one after that. Bring 11 quickdraws.
By Jeremy W
From: Clinton, NY
Aug 25, 2011
There's an orange Petzl rope stuck on dream dome, maybe halfway in. I'll grab it this Saturday. Feel free to unstick it and hide it if you're climbing that route.