Dreadlocks  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Drew Bedford Season:  West facing wall Submitted By:  bheller on May 29, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>> See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page for more information. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This interesting and neglected route packs a technical and bouldery crux high on the slightly overhanging wall. The line follows a broken crack system above Suicide Blonde. The crux is encountered right before clipping the 2nd to last bolt. I surmise it is sticking the "really cool pocket move" described in the Ruckman's AF guidbook. It seems clear to me that holds have broken in this crux area, and the route is now considerably harder than the Ruckman guidebook indicates. Still a worthy outing.

Location 

The route climbs a jagged crack system up the slightly overhanging headwall above Suicide Blonde. The traditional start was to begin on Beeline and veer left, but starting on Suicide Blonde seems more direct to me. Its nice to have options.

Protection 

Bolts (11 total?) to open-shut anchors.