dreadlock  5.10b/c

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Type:  Trad, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  jerry roberts (1987) Season:  not summer Submitted By:  bernard on Sep 22, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

start up slabby, ledgy rock at the base of the wide corner. Vegetation can be in varying degrees, problematic here (if no one has pruned recently). A beautiful 5.7 arete is to your right, the Whole Wheat/Fables corner-to-roof is to your left, angle your direction so you are moving up just left of the center of the face. Gear is sparse, aim for a thin arching crack that will provide some key placements. Delicate, steep climbing. Intimidating. Some well thought out gear placements are crucial to avoid a perilous fall. Boulder up to a bolt. Past it is the route crux perhaps, then into slightly slabbish, runout face moving into the final overhanging portion. Roof is steep and pumpy....juggy....and suuuuuper airy...there might be a fixed pin up here......boulder it out, up, and onto the slab headwall with final moves on sculpted holds and slots. Tall route. One of the best routes on this cliff. I always belay from the top. Walk off down the steep descent gully adjacent to the route's start. This is a serious route. It has a big route, T-Wall kinda feel to it. It is a full-value route, having a range of challenges. I would advise being solid on 5.10 and being especially solid on your creative use of trad gear. Sometimes the aformentioned arching thin crack that plays a crucial role in the protection scheme will seep, will be wet....complicating a feel-good ascent of this route

Location 

right of Fables, Modern Day Pirates, Flying Circus, and Tech Noir, which are all around the corner from Meathooks and Memory, Rock Wa, etc

Protection 

standard Steele rack

as with most all Steele climbs, there are no fixed belay anchors. Please do not install fixed anchors. Bring appropriate resources and skills to lead, finish, and safely second these routes without undue imposition on the environment