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Routes in Top of the Grotto (Ojo and Evil Paradise Sectors )
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Black Mass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cruella de Vil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demon Lung S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Drama Queen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Evil Paradise S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hidden Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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High on Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Memory Block S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ojo (del Diablo) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Panic Attack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Prescribed Burn S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prison, Babe T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Reverend, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Running with the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Anne Marie S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sympathy for the Devil S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Vaino Kodas, Gabriela Baumeister, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,051 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Mar 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Drama Queen has nice thin face climbing for 40', after 2 bolts worth of gully thrashing (shared with El Areto Bolto Del Diablo). It was difficult to tell when to leave the crack on the right or left side of the narrow face, and when it was time to actually commit to the thin face. Once on the face and going, the climbing was high quality with small edges and occasional pockets, in the spirit of some of the other 5.10 low angle climbs at Diablo (El Areto, Humbolt, 2-Wheel Drive, Hidden Slab).
This climb possibly deserves another star, or 2, but my fingers were so cold that I was having a hissy fit during my onsight (when I climb it again, I'll reconsider; and the grit/rubble will be lessened with further traffic). (If it isn't cold,) you should do this one while you're up here to climb the soon-to-be classic El Areto (also 5.10d), which is well worth the effort of hiking up to.
Drama Queen is fully shaded until late afternoon, and fairly sheltered from wind.
Vaino's website has a nice picture showing this route.
This climb possibly deserves another star, or 2, but my fingers were so cold that I was having a hissy fit during my onsight (when I climb it again, I'll reconsider; and the grit/rubble will be lessened with further traffic). (If it isn't cold,) you should do this one while you're up here to climb the soon-to-be classic El Areto (also 5.10d), which is well worth the effort of hiking up to.
Drama Queen is fully shaded until late afternoon, and fairly sheltered from wind.
Vaino's website has a nice picture showing this route.
Location
Drama Queen climbs a narrow face right of El Areto Bolto Del Diablo. These two new routes share the first 2 bolts, and begin in a gully about 50' right of the Evil Paradise route, right of Lucifer's Hammer Drill.
There is a 2-bolt anchor at the start from which to belay, to the right of where you'd approach (but we didn't see it somehow).
There is a 2-bolt anchor at the start from which to belay, to the right of where you'd approach (but we didn't see it somehow).
Photos
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