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BETA PHOTO: Dragonslayer and Transgression, as seen from the a...
This is a long route that diagonals through three sections of hard climbing. Rain kept us off the third crux but also revealed a good way to do this route at 5.11c: after the second crux, climb the easy hand-size crack to the right and then reach right to the anchors on Holey Joe; this flows well and allows the 5.11 climber to climb the brilliant first 80 feet of the route.
QDs, hand-size cams for the escape variation.
From: Morrison, Co
Aug 9, 2009
You wouldn't know it from the base, but this might be one of the top 10 routes at Devil's Head. Superb rock, amazing movement, and great position. Good rest in between the cruxes keep the climbing easy for the grade. Get on it!
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 1, 2010
I agree. This route is really amazing. A little lichen cleaning would make it even more enjoyable. I got sucked into going left on good holds at the upper headwall and took a ride. Staying on or near the arete made more sense in the end.
|By Christian Mason|
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 19, 2010
I disagree - stay left on the headwall at the top. It's a little steep, but the holds are better than you'd expect, and it flows really well.
Really enjoyed this climb.
|By Chris Beh|
Mar 24, 2011
What a great route!!! But I had some trouble at the last crux clipping 2nd to last or 3rd to last bolt (can't remember which). It was obviously placed to contrive the line through the hardest moves but within an arm's reach left are jugs and huecos. It climbs like a different variation. Go left and then back right I think it is 11c, staying right, on the bolt line, it's solid 12a.
A suggestion for Mr. Anderson if you get around to rebolting this one...move that one bolt about a foot left. Then it would be possible to do either finish. It wouldn't be contrived but would allow climbers to go either way safely. Using the left finish makes the middle crux the crux of the route 11c/d.
And Mr Anderson thanks for all the work you put in bolting and now rebolting these routes. I saw you fixing Man Chowder last October, way to go.
Jul 23, 2012
absolutely stellar route. the rock is really neat, the bolting is excellent, and the climbing is fun as hell. pretty long route, so if you have a 60, keep an eye on the end when you are lowering/rapping. i wouldn't recommend a 50 (not sure if anybody even still uses a 50 these days). man, what a fun route - do it!
|By DJ RYNO|
From: chatfield lake ,co
Sep 16, 2012
Last weekend our group left one alpine draw near the top of this route on accident. If anyone happens to snag it, please send a personal message and we can get it back to the rightful owner. Thank you! What a fantastic route!!