Far left side of the 45deg boulder, right of that slab route no one seems to know the name of. Basically a very cool V7 boulder problem to a 5.11 slab to the chains. A truly proud ascent would be to (highball) boulder it which would require plenty of pads and spotters...and confidence
bolts, preclip the first 2 so you don't end up in the stream
Jul 24, 2008
I bolted this route and Ed Strang made the first ascent, followed by Jean DeLataillade, and then Paul May all in the same day. It took me a few more months to beat it into submission. Nathaniel Walker later discovered that a good alternate finish (instead of climbing thin the slab after the crux) is to traverse to the right and finish on BeastMaster.
We all thought this route seemed like 13c at the time. 12d seems a bit ridiculous -- it's a pretty hard boulder problem.
Jul 27, 2008
consensus 12d, ha ha... hilarious. more like solid 13b.
|By Matthew NM|
Apr 7, 2009
Eh, hard to grade I suppose, didnt' mean to offend. Really this is roped bouldering and at that it felt about V7. So maybe that's the better way to look at it instead of a 5.whatever grade. Regardless of the grade, it's a lot of fun and well worth doing.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c
Those with small wingspans (including myself) definitely are going to fight for this one. I couldn't reach the "diving board" jug from the big undercling, so I sent using a kneescum and an awful undercling ten inches up and right from the big one. Felt about V8 for the beta I used.