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 ADVANCED
The Warlock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon's Back T 
Flying Warlocks T 
Ghostbumps T,S 
Howling, The T,S 
Imaginary Voyage T 
Planet Waves T 
Romantic Warrior T 
Sarcophagus, The T 
Sea of Tranquility T 
South Face T 
Spell, The T 
Titanic, The T 
Unknown T,S 

Dragon's Back 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Wonderly & Don Wilson
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 19, 2008

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Dragon's Back goes up the sharp-thin arete in the ...

Description 

Dragon's Back takes the knife-edge arete just right of Imaginary Voyage. Approach by hiking all the way around the north side of the Warlock (dropping fairly low into the trees on a decent trail). Once on the east side, the climb is obvious.

Head up the arete past bolts and a few gear placements. A bit spicy due to some of the bolt locations.

Two raps with a single 60m rope to get down -- one off the anchor to a ledge with a tree in the corner to the right of the climb, then one rap off the tree to the base.

Protection 

Single set of cams from blue to red Alien. Small wires. Draws. Something to replace the tat on the anchor.


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By Murf
Aug 5, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

I thought the best start was to the right of the arete, belaying high off of gear. Spicy and very committing, but with rests. A great route if you are looking for one more pitch at the end of a hot day (goes into the shade late).

With a 60m rope you get to a lowish angle "butt wedge" descent about 20' off the ground. Alternately you could rap to a tree and with wrap your rope around the tree or add some tat.

NOTE: The above mentions starting "to the right of the arete", I believe this is a mistake on my part. We belayed high to the LEFT of the arete. The lead then crosses over the arete to the right side.