Dragon's Back 5.10-
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Pochay, Olson, 93 |
| Submitted By: | Hillary Davis on Jun 20, 2006 |
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Pretty lichen on The Dragon's Back
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Description Climb the obvious lime-green-lichen-covered arete. The guidebook says 5.9, which is a bit of a sandbag, but not a huge one. It could be a bit much if 5.9 is your limit, though. Pretty fun and aesthetic.
Location This is in EFR's guidebook in the Prison Camp/Jailhouse Rock area, on a formation called Dragon Tower. This is the first formation you see when you drop down into the canyon, and is adjacent to the short waterfalls and cool mermaid pools. During wet years, the base can be a fairly deep, froggy-filled pool. Use your better judgement if you find water at the base.
Protection Bolts, chains
Looking down the canyon near Dragon's Back
| This climb is a little rough on the tips, we figur...
| Chels making it look easy like usual
| The variation left the aerate can take you up abou...
| photo of dragon wall from oppisite side
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| Comments on Dragon's Back |
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By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.10-
| great climb, but be careful; the 10a/b part starts with the first move and lasts until about the second bolt so it's real easy to deck if you're on lead. you can make it a solid 9 by climbing around to the right on the arete and getting back on the route after the second bolt (which is what i did) if you're not comfortable leading 10s (which i'm not). the rest of the climb is pretty much sustained 9 moves, a little overhung until the top. i'd actually give this one 3 stars if the whole thing was a 9. |
By joshf From: missoula, mt Nov 22, 2007 rating: 5.9
| fun route, stay right for the good holds, say goodbye to your tips if you stay left |
By Christian From: Tucson, Az Nov 22, 2007
| The unnamed, not-in-the-guidebook route to the right of Dragon's Back is a MIXED route, there's only two bolts if I remember correctly. Maybe about 5.8+? Had to mention this because one time a guy who was seriously Elvis legging on the 5.6 down the stream wanted to get on this with just quickdraws. I managed to dissuade him. |
By E.Krogh Nov 21, 2008
| Nice, fun route, but the belay area can be sketchy. One of the bolts on the anchored chains looked a little rusty for my taste. got me thinking about what it looks like internally in the rock....? well, it holds fine as I'm still alive, but hopefully someone who knows what they're doing can replace those someday. |
By Jay Oswald Dec 18, 2008
| This was a nice route - if you aren't feeling too great about the anchors at the top its an easy walk off. |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Apr 20, 2009
| 6 bolts with a few committing moves and pumpy too. Great route for the entrance to the area. First route or last route of the day, it's worth a ride up. |
By Sean Martinson Apr 29, 2010
| Great climb.Pretty sustained.Def crux moves in beginning. |
By AZ Spray May 15, 2010
| This isn't close to being a 5.10-. This is more like a 5.8+. Stop spraying! This isn't even sustained. |
By CALEB ANDERSON May 19, 2010
| who is this menace with a keyboard....someone stop him before he sprays all over his keys. |
By dale polen From: arivaca, az Dec 29, 2010
| Great climb, Climb the face, which I did, and its a bit harder then if you chicken out and climb the arete. I really like the moves and it was sustained at the bottom and eases towards the top. Only if you stay on the face if you climb out right it is significantly easier. I loved it. |
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Mar 23, 2011
| My friend decked on this from about the second bolt, I was able to yank in some slack so he didn't hit too hard. He is fine but I would definitely advise being humble about your abilities before trying to lead it. |
By Myk From: tucson, az May 4, 2012
| Fun route. Added Mussy hooks to this and anchors to the right. Over hanging face to the left is really fun. Big holds below where it is steep, then gets a bit cruxy on some smaller holds where it hits vertical. Rock a bit questionable, belayer beware. |
By soren tucker From: tucson, az May 27, 2012
| Pochay and Olsen did not bolt this climb. My father (Steve Tucker) and mother ( Melissa Tucker) bolted it in 96 as a warmup for hard climbs at jailhouse; while my mom was pregnant with me. Regardless, a great climb, despite the third bolt hanger being loose enough to spin. |
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