|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Steve Roper, Joe McKeown, 3/1960|
|Submitted By:||rhyang on Jan 12, 2011|
|Comments on Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: So San Francisco
Jan 16, 2011
|You can also TR a 5.9 about 10 feet up the hill on the same anchors.|
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Fantastic route! Starts with a thoroughly enjoyable crack to the right of a large flake, which can be protected with small/medium pieces. Alternatively, thrown a cordelette around the whole flake once you're on top of it. From there, work your way to the first bolt. The pockets take good tricams.
The section between the first and second bolts is runout, and I think this route deserves an R rating, even for Pinnacles. There are no protection opportunities, and you go for a good 15-18ft between bolts. If you mess up, you're going for the "big W"... Don't. The climbing seems thin, but taking your time and sniffing out the best holds on the fairly featureless face will deliver you safely to the second bolt and from there to the summit.
The views are outstanding! This is a quality climb. Rap chains on top.