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This is a decent route with a fair bit of good crack climbing and O.W. There is some flaky rock here and there. It tops out practically on the road. It is mostly shaded.
Start on a grassy ledge about 15m (easy scarmble/solo) above the tire mentioned in the location.
P1: Continue up ledges to a small 5.8 corner and a ledge in a larger corner. Climb splitter shooting out right from the ledge to a square cut ledge on an arete. 5.9+, 40m.
P2: Climb hands and OW straight up from right side of the belay ledge. Belay in chockstone/flake. 5.11, 20m.
P3: Climb difficult leaning OW past a bolt. 5.11+/12-. Alternate belay at broken pegmatite ledge. Continue through peg cracks to two pitons. Step down and right to belay in corner. 5.10+, 35m.
P4: Wander up corner and face to 2 bolt belay below roof. 5.9, 20m.
P5: Climb around roof to fist crack. 5.11. Alternate belay at ledge. Continue up corner to a right-leaning ramp below a piton. Belay in a corner to the right. 5.9, 35m.
P6: Climb shallow corner past a pin to a bolt. Face climbing goes left past a small crack, another bolt, and a short corner to a ledge and a belay bolt. 5.11, 20m.
P7: Climb arch to V-slot roof and a hand/fist crack above. 20m.
P8: Climb rotten pegmatite corner and roof. Step right then back left to a large legde below a short OW. 5.9, 20m.
P9: Climb the short OW above the belay. Step left around the arete. Climb a wild overhang to a small ledge. Head up a thinning OW on the arete to a broken corner and chockstones. Continue to the rim. 5.11, 30m
Your car should be nearly visible from here.
This is on the north facing wall in the gully to the south (skier's left) of Dragon Point. The route can easily be scoped from the rim. Descend into gully just off the parking.
Part 1: Bash down a few hundred feet to a slung thread. Rappel 20m or downclimb (5.5ish).
Part 2: Hike down right side of gully. Locate slung thread above a chockstone. Rappel 15m.
Part 3: Continue down gully to slung thread. Rappel 20m.
Part 4: Hike down ledge system in the middle of the gully. Locate two bolts with slings. Rappel 25m.
Part 5: Hike and scramble down the left side of the gully to a tire. Climb up from here. Us the same start as Black Snake, Black Circus.
Set of nuts (with smallish ones).
2 sets of cams to 3.5 Friend size.
Two #4, one #4.5, one #5 Camalots (old sizes).
|By Jay Brown|
Aug 16, 2011
A couple notes:
1. P3 peg is pretty sketchy!
2. P8 peg is actually alright.
3. P9 "thinning" o.w. isn't really an o.w., but it has some thin moves at the top.
I thought this route was better than its neighbor "Black Snake"
You can't aid through the .12- o.w. with a #6, you would need a Bigbro.
It has a lot of handjams on good rock!