Dragon Enters the Corner  5.10d PG13

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Rob DeZonia and Jake Hains New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: This shows the route as seen from below from a sho...

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Description 

The first pitch is 4 stars with outstanding friction stemming. The second pitch has a little dirty, spicy funk for 20' or so and then becomes 4 stars as well. Outstanding rock quality on this one.

P1. (10d) Climb up a left-facing corner and clip a bolt out right. Work your way up into the corner. Friction stemming (10+) with bolt protection takes you up the first half of the corner. The second half of the corner is laybacks and finger locks (10+). The angle of the corner eases and takes you to a ledge with large blocks. Belay on left making a high anchor.

P2. (10c PG-13) Move up and left off belay into an alcove that goes into a 0.5-1" crack about 20' up. There is one move before you can place gear in the good crack that is a little spicy, protected with a crappy #0 Metolius. Once good gear is placed in good crack, make an awkward move left to a very bushy stance and crack (10b). You can pull up into the 1" crack (11a) and move left also. Climb this fantastic crack past a downward pointing spike for about 30' until a hard move stops you. Reach out left to another splitter crack that provides sharp, steep, juggy climbing and move straight up till the crack arches back right towards the previous one after another 20'. A yellow Alien or equivalent provides great protection for a large move up and right to a thank got jug just right of the previous crack. Climb this crack to the top, about 25', on more amazing rock. Slings and a #3 or 4 Camalot should provide an anchor at the summit.
I may place anchors on this in the fall and clean up the second pitch a bit. It seams well worth the hike, and I hope some other adventurists enjoy this and Vulgar Display of Power.

Location 

This route is on the left end of The Temple of Tao. It climbs a very obvious, left-facing corner.

Protection 

A standard rack and some extra quick draws for the first pitch will see you to the top.

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Jake looking up at me on the first ascent of P1.	Jake leading P2.	Jake following P1. The pic makes it look crazier t...