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Dragon Enters the Corner
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in The Temple of Tao
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Dragon Enters the Corner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Drunken Master T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Frog Prince, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heng Chuan Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hobson’s Choice T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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My Turn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Penguin Arete T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tao-yin S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Treacherous T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Vulgar Display of Power T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Your Turn T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Zig Zag Rope Drag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Rob DeZonia and Jake Hains |
| Page Views: | 1,719 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
The first pitch is 4 stars with outstanding friction stemming. The second pitch has a little dirty, spicy funk for 20' or so and then becomes 4 stars as well. Outstanding rock quality on this one.
P1. (10d) Climb up a left-facing corner and clip a bolt out right. Work your way up into the corner. Friction stemming (10+) with bolt protection takes you up the first half of the corner. The second half of the corner is laybacks and finger locks (10+). The angle of the corner eases and takes you to a ledge with large blocks. Belay on left making a high anchor.
P2. (10c PG-13) Move up and left off belay into an alcove that goes into a 0.5-1" crack about 20' up. There is one move before you can place gear in the good crack that is a little spicy, protected with a crappy #0 Metolius. Once good gear is placed in good crack, make an awkward move left to a very bushy stance and crack (10b). You can pull up into the 1" crack (11a) and move left also. Climb this fantastic crack past a downward pointing spike for about 30' until a hard move stops you. Reach out left to another splitter crack that provides sharp, steep, juggy climbing and move straight up till the crack arches back right towards the previous one after another 20'. A yellow Alien or equivalent provides great protection for a large move up and right to a thank got jug just right of the previous crack. Climb this crack to the top, about 25', on more amazing rock. Slings and a #3 or 4 Camalot should provide an anchor at the summit.
I may place anchors on this in the fall and clean up the second pitch a bit. It seams well worth the hike, and I hope some other adventurists enjoy this and Vulgar Display of Power.
P1. (10d) Climb up a left-facing corner and clip a bolt out right. Work your way up into the corner. Friction stemming (10+) with bolt protection takes you up the first half of the corner. The second half of the corner is laybacks and finger locks (10+). The angle of the corner eases and takes you to a ledge with large blocks. Belay on left making a high anchor.
P2. (10c PG-13) Move up and left off belay into an alcove that goes into a 0.5-1" crack about 20' up. There is one move before you can place gear in the good crack that is a little spicy, protected with a crappy #0 Metolius. Once good gear is placed in good crack, make an awkward move left to a very bushy stance and crack (10b). You can pull up into the 1" crack (11a) and move left also. Climb this fantastic crack past a downward pointing spike for about 30' until a hard move stops you. Reach out left to another splitter crack that provides sharp, steep, juggy climbing and move straight up till the crack arches back right towards the previous one after another 20'. A yellow Alien or equivalent provides great protection for a large move up and right to a thank got jug just right of the previous crack. Climb this crack to the top, about 25', on more amazing rock. Slings and a #3 or 4 Camalot should provide an anchor at the summit.
I may place anchors on this in the fall and clean up the second pitch a bit. It seams well worth the hike, and I hope some other adventurists enjoy this and Vulgar Display of Power.
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