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Dragon Arch
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon Arch 
Enter the Dragon 
Gimme Danger 
Hairstyles and Attitudes 
Last Shout 
Lunar Tick 
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie 
Rodeo Girls in Bondage 
Toymakers Dream 
Two Heads Are Better Than One 
Valentine Crack 

Dragon Arch 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 13,744. Good page?   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: grk10vq on Apr 10, 2005

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed
Thunderstorm
70° | 45°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
66° | 36°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
70° | 39°
Partly Cloudy
79° | 48°
Partly Cloudy
88° | 48°

BETA PHOTO: Egg and Dragon Arch

Description 

The Dragon Arch is a relatively remote and rarely visited crag in LCC. Having a route of nearly every grade and almost every style, the Dragon Arch has an adventure waiting for for even the pickiest climber.

Primarily a traditional, mixed crag, this area holds a lot of history and old school flare. Looking for something wide? Try your hand at the still squeamish Valentine Crack. Bob Irine, Rick Reese and Ted Wilson's 1963 Valentine's Day sweet treat was later freed by local climbing icon George Lowe and partner Rex Alldredge. Strap on your boots and grovel!

If wide, daring cracks aren't your thing take a spin on Lunar Tick. Climbed on January 1st 1990, this is quite possibly the first route of the 90's.

Want something new? Say Gimmie Danger, but be careful what you wish for...this more contemporary line boasts old school flavor! And if you want to mix the old with the new step up to the plate and try the crags most recently freed Enter the Dragon. An old, abandoned aid line re-equipped and re-run as a two-pitch mega route.

A 20th century crag with some 21st century additions, explore this area's mystique. Just remember, this is the Dragon Arch- Don't get burned.


Getting There 

Park at the Little Cottonwood Park and Ride and take the excellent trail out of the NE corner and approach the same as for The Egg. Once at the lower base of The Egg, before the last few switchbacks, continue to the right and head around up and right to the Dragon Arch. See the beta photo with The Egg and the Dragon Arch for any questions.

Thanks to the SLCA for the trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dragon Arch:
Two Heads Are Better Than One   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Dragon Arch   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Hairstyles and Attitudes   5.10-     Trad, 100 feet   
Gimme Danger   5.10+     Trad, 2 pitches, 180 feet   
Toymakers Dream   5.11a     Trad, 70 feet   
Enter the Dragon   5.11-     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet   
Browse More Classics in Dragon Arch

Featured Route For Dragon Arch
Enter the Dragon.

Enter the Dragon 5.11-  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dragon Arch
Enter the Dragon climbs the long and varied corner system to the left of Valentine Crack. To access the obvious, right-facing corner, climb any one of three approach pitches described below. Once beneath the steep, streaked green wall, layback and jam your way up the splitter, fist-to-hand crack to a roof. Undercling right along flakes to a small alcove--home to a decent-sized, rectangular detached block. Move right--past the block--and to the start of a steep ramp. Tiptoe past a slabby bul...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Dragon Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Lower Dragon Arch area with <a href='/v/hairstyles-and-attitudes/106596475'>Hairstyles and Attitudes</a> (the dihedral crack in red, alternate start shown) and Toymaker's Dream (mixed line in blue). <br />The wideness in the background is <a href='/v/valentine-crack/105741464'>Valentine Crack</a>.

BETA PHOTO: Lower Dragon Arch area with Hairstyles and Attitudes (the dih...

The three new routes from left to right. <br />Enter the Dragon, Gimme Danger and Last Shout.

BETA PHOTO: The three new routes from left to right.
Enter the...



Comments on Dragon Arch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Craig Martin
Nov 8, 2009

Has anyone around these parts been on Rodeo Girls in Bondage recently?
I am curious about the condition of the fixed gear at the 1st pitch anchor?

By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 8, 2009

I did it last weekend. The pins for the first pitch belay seem good. Its easy to back them up with a blue metolius tcu. The first knifeblade at the start of the second pitch (the only good pitch on this route) is junk. I would never fall on it. The next pin on the second pitch (an SMC hybrid angle/knifeblade) seemed good. I did back it up with a lowe-ball and didn't fall on it. I really liked that second pitch.