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The Planet of the Apes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Damned Dirty Apes T,S 
Dr. Zaius T 
I Feel Lonely T 
Law Giver T 
Man Can Be Domesticated T,S 
Nova's Route S 
Simian Survival T,S 
To Hell With The Scarecrows T,S 

Dr. Zaius 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: G. Kirchhoff, R. Sugget - August 2012
Page Views: 990
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 8, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Roy closing in on the anchor


"I have always known about man. From the evidence, I believe his wisdom must walk hand and hand with his idiocy." Dr. Zaius-

Dr. Zaius offers great crack climbing up a tough and tricky face. Well protected, this is an awesome, exciting route with plenty of options for gear. Worth its weight in gold, this line would have a line anywhere else. Unreal!!

Begin in a steep, hand size crack and work up passing a small roof. Continue on the face, following a crack to a ledge that gains a good rest. Climb the dihedral up to a giant roof. Pull and traverse the roof then finish left, up a steep varied face, split by a crack. A mighty fine line, lets hope your wisdom overrules your idiocy...


At the entrance of The Planet of the Apes, this is the obvious, long crack with a giant roof.


A large assortment of medium to large cams, a single set of small cams and nuts, plenty of small and long runners. A few extra #3's, #4's, and #5's are recommended.

Photos of Dr. Zaius Slideshow Add Photo
Fun moves on Dr. Z.
BETA PHOTO: Fun moves on Dr. Z.
Dr. Zaius
Dr. Zaius
Dr. Zaius
Recommended Rack
Recommended Rack
More fun moves!
BETA PHOTO: More fun moves!
Roy cleaning gear under the roof and hoping for no...
BETA PHOTO: Roy cleaning gear under the roof and hoping for no...

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By Roy Suggett
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This was a very, very impressive FA by G.K. and the large loose chalk stone made the climbing even more exciting! Now that the route has been cleaned, I believe this is one of the best routes in the Jungle. Get your head together for the roof!
By BSU_Zac
From: Cedar City, UT
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Wow what a great route! This would be a must-do at any crag. The bottom section is exciting on it's own but then it's combined with a large roof and relatively long OW. The roof may not look big or committing from the ground but just wait until you are underneath it. Keep your head calm and plan your placements to both reduce rope drag and protect your second from a major swing. After you are done with the roof, you still have a great OW to navigate. Big props to Greg for a great FA!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We stumbled on this gem after 4 days of getting rained on and rejected from just about every line. Sexiest hunk of rock ever. Perfect laser cut splitters up immaculate slabs covered in awesome lichen. HOT DAMN!

Edit: finally climbed the beast. Spectacular movement on very unique rock with a pretty high intimidation factor. The gear is great but everything rings a bit hollow, adding to the excitement. As mentioned by others, strategic back cleaning and long runners will save you from the rope drag monster. Gear-wise, single set from BD yellow C3 to #5 with doubles in #3 and #4 worked great. Extra #3, #4 and #5 would save you some cam bumping.
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