A very short, crimpy and balancy route on the north side of a limestone boulder.
The route starts just less than vertical and gets slightly overhanging. There are a few crimps, a couple of sidepulls and a sloper or two. Juggy holds right at the top.
There is a (very) short crack to the right of the last bolt.
Don't blow the second clip; it'd probably be painful. You can walk off the backside if you don't feel like lowering or rappelling.
Located on the north side of the 3rd large boulder up the hillside.
3 bolts to chains. The chains are set back from the edge a bit so bring slings (longer than standard 24") to toprope it without dragging the rope over the edge.
Caleb at the last bolt on Dr. Teeth
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
May 10, 2007
When I went to do this route I assumed it'd be a "no-star" special. Actually, I thought it was pretty fun, and harder than it looks; it's just short. If it were longer I'd probably give it two stars.
|By Jonathan Adams|
From: Provo UT
Nov 7, 2009
I had put off this route for a long time because of how short and out of the way it is, but I finally went and did it today. It was a surprisingly fun route, and definitely harder than it looks. Getting from the second to the third bolt I had to get a little creative to make it up. If you're looking for a short fun climb near the entrance of the canyon, it's worth doing.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Jul 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Felt hard for the grade. An ok little route that's worth doing once. It's also the closest limestone sport route to the parking lot!
|By Canyon Copa|
May 29, 2012
A lot tougher than I was expecting. Clipping the second bolt definitely got my heart racing, as well as the boulder-type top out to the chains.
|By Tristan Mayfield|
From: Provo, UT
Jul 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
I really liked it for a small route. I definitely expected it be easier, but just make sure to spot the little crimps you need just below the second bolt and it's pretty good.