Dr. Teeth 5.10a
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BETA PHOTO: Dr. Teeth
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Description A very short, crimpy and balancy route on the north side of a limestone boulder.
The route starts just less than vertical and gets slightly overhanging. There are a few crimps, a couple of sidepulls and a sloper or two. Juggy holds right at the top.
There is a (very) short crack to the right of the last bolt.
Don't blow the second clip; it'd probably be painful. You can walk off the backside if you don't feel like lowering or rappelling.
Location Located on the north side of the 3rd large boulder up the hillside.
Protection 3 bolts to chains. The chains are set back from the edge a bit so bring slings (longer than standard 24") to toprope it without dragging the rope over the edge.
Caleb at the last bolt on Dr. Teeth
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
May 10, 2007
| When I went to do this route I assumed it'd be a "no-star" special. Actually, I thought it was pretty fun, and harder than it looks; it's just short. If it were longer I'd probably give it two stars. |
By Jonathan Adams
From: Provo UT
Nov 7, 2009
| I had put off this route for a long time because of how short and out of the way it is, but I finally went and did it today. It was a surprisingly fun route, and definitely harder than it looks. Getting from the second to the third bolt I had to get a little creative to make it up. If you're looking for a short fun climb near the entrance of the canyon, it's worth doing. |
By Tristan Higbee
From: Mexico
Jul 23, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| Felt hard for the grade. An ok little route that's worth doing once. It's also the closest limestone sport route to the parking lot! |
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012
| A lot tougher than I was expecting. Clipping the second bolt definitely got my heart racing, as well as the boulder-type top out to the chains. |
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