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Dr Strange Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Nov 24, 2012

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Described in the Falcon "Best climbs Moab" as "tricky" and a 5 bolt sport route going at 5.10.

It has 5 bolts, the first about 15 or more feet off the ground clipped from an insecure stance. It is tricky at the crux. I would take a few small cams for the pods en route to the first bolt of this sport climb. I whined, sniveled etc more than I think I ever have on a mid grade 5.10. For comparison, and I found all the other 10s in this routes vicinity to be significantly easier. Your mileage may vary.

Still, fun, sequency moves on typical sand covered crimps to a creaky flake.

Location 

Imediately right of Fistful of Potash, first route left of the Schoolroom Slabs on a small buttress.

Protection 

5 draws and a few small to mid size cams.


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By jthmmdom
Dec 22, 2015

Good crimps until you get to your first bolt. Bring small cams if you want to plug up the crack. The excitement comes when you have to lean out to a sand covered flake and really wrench on it.

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