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30 Seconds Over Potash T 
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Chemistry T 
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Dr Strange Flake T,S 
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East Of Wrath T 
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Zig Zag S 

Dr Strange Flake 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Nov 24, 2012

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Description 

Described in the Falcon "Best climbs Moab" as "tricky" and a 5 bolt sport route going at 5.10.

It has 5 bolts, the first about 15 or more feet off the ground clipped from an insecure stance. It is tricky at the crux. I would take a few small cams for the pods en route to the first bolt of this sport climb. I whined, sniveled etc more than I think I ever have on a mid grade 5.10. For comparison, and I found all the other 10s in this routes vicinity to be significantly easier. Your mileage may vary.

Still, fun, sequency moves on typical sand covered crimps to a creaky flake.


Location 

Imediately right of Fistful of Potash, first route left of the Schoolroom Slabs on a small buttress.


Protection 

5 draws and a few small to mid size cams.



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