Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters
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the manimal laying it back to the top
Climb the splitter cracks from the top of Pitch 1 on princely ambitions. The crux comes at about 50 feet just before a ledge at the base of a corner/chimney. This feature can be either climbed directly or liebacked. It is a little bit friskier to lie it back, you can't really reach the crack to place gear. Near the end of the lieback as it starts to get slopey, you may either discover a really cool trick to make the final move easy, or you may go for a good ride.
Just right of pitch 2 on princely ambitions
Gear to 2 inches
Seth cranking the lieback on Tuna Boaters
From: Santan Valley, AZ
Apr 12, 2010
EXCELLENT ROUTE and Great description of the last section of the climb:)
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 2, 2010
Did this one on TR for the first time last weekend. Very enjoyable finger crack to start with followed by a fun sequence into the chimney.
Instead of doing the layback, I stayed inside the flare and found it suprisingly secure to chimney, but my partner, who is several inches taller, got spat out pretty quickly so maybe not the best strategy for those over 5' 1".
Mar 29, 2013
Great stemming and liebacking at the beginning with great locks. Green Alien/red C3 is perfect for the crux and a bomber nut can be had right before starting the lieback at the top. I agree that the description of the last section is spot on. Spicy but safe!