Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride 

Great climb at a moderate grade. Minimal loose rock for a 'desert tower' climb. Combine to 2 pitches total to enjoy even more without 'short' pitches, although that adds sustanance to the 'first pitch', and may make the climb feel more like 10a.

There are anchors on the summit, so look around for them. I was goofy enough to belay off of some marginal gear right next to the big bomer bolts! Silly me.

Fun route that isn't too tough. Rap from anchors at the top and escape off the back. Walk back around to your gear.

First two pitches are stiff for the grade, but very cool.

The fourth pitch is challenging as well. The pitch wanders a bit, the mantle move is above a ledge, left of the bolt, and my belayer couldn't see me at all. So, it seemed like a good chance of hitting the ledge below if you blew the move.

At the summit, the bolts are on the opposite side of the formation from where you top out.

What a climb! The first two pitches were quite stout for the grade but well worth it. My favorite part was by far the third "airy traverse" pitch.. it puts the Mace's traverse to shame!

Fun route with pretty solid rock. The pitches are all short, so the climbing goes really fast. The crux is getting into the crack on P2 -- definitely 5.9+, maybe even 5.10.

IMPORTANT BETA: On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope.

"On June 15, 2008 a rap station was added on a ledge about 98 feet from the summit, so the route can be rapped with one 60m rope"

Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem.

"Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?

I'm curious to see if these do gooders are as conscientious at replacing worn sport area anchors as adding superfluous stations to classic Sedona towers.

Gotta love it.

I distinctly recall the rap being fun and pretty. Darn shame someone would F with it.

Actual first ascent of the tower was Herb North's lead. Followed by Peter Nobels y moi. Larry does deserve credit for the first ascent in that he did the first pitch, found the climb, etc.... But then let it sit for awhile (6 months.)

A group of us where in the area (same day as Tower of Boodle first ascent I believe) when this was pointed out to Herb. He was actually going to come back down after the crux when he found out he was "stealing" Larry's climb, but I convinced him to finish it off.

I agree with Greg. There's no way the first pitch is any harder than 5.9. It's hard to miss the huge jugs (at every tricky part), even at night. If it's feeling harder than 5.9, you're probably overlooking a big hold.

Did the route yesterday. The new rap station is well placed and in an excellent location on a huge ledge and does not remove the "free hanging rappel" aspect. Used no stoppers and a double rack with single #3.

Watched out for the bees. On 09/01/2009, we were attacked by bees after we rappelled down from the top on our way to retrieve our packs at the start of the climb. The bees hive was located appx 50 yards down from the base of the rappel, along the edge of the rock face. There is an alternative path if you head out from the spire a bit and then down and around to the base of the climb. Awesome climb.

I had a similar experience with the bees years ago, but have been back and not been bothered. Good to know that they are still around. Try linking p1 and p2 for an awesome 190 foot enduro pitch. Awesome summit

wild route. clever route-finding of Dr.Rubo. Classic spire summit. can't beat mid-sixties temps in January! Definitely would have been nice to have more than a single #1, #2 and #3 for P2. oops. mantle move on last pitch was puzzling and somewhat under-protected to do it the "5.7" way. regarding the new rap station, i don't mind only needing one rope for the raps.

A fine summer morning climb! Surprising. First two pitches in the shade, belay in the shade after the third, gorgeous summit, sunny return. Not bad. Start as early as you can from the lot. Shade lasts through 10 or 11ish on the first two pitches and the rest is mellow. Double rope rap highly recommended (Fun!) rather than messing around with the midway anchor.

If anyone lost a ring, found at the base of Dr. Rubos, please describe for its return.

Fletch

Found a belay device on the approach up to Dr. Rubos, let me know if you lost it and I'll get it back to you.

Stellar **** p1 & 2, the rest is fun and quite civilized. I saw the 9+ and 10 ratings on here and was scared. But this climb is at most 9- and well protected, by local standards I would say. Grade easier than mace, and certainly coyote tower. The mantel on p4 is cool. Fantastic climb

P1&2 are great. Rock quality goes downhill quickly after that (P3 especially). Cool mantle and great views from the top!

The anchor that folks above were complaining about may have a different purpose -- it's the anchor for a climb that starts from the saddle that you rap to from the top of Dr. R's. I got the rope stuck pulling from below the saddle (NOT recommended, pull rope from saddle and then downclimb) and in rescuing it we "discovered" a sweet little climb from the saddle up to the anchor on top of the ledge. A single bolt protects the loose and crumbly layback section and it's about 8 by Sedona ratings.

Seemed like solid "desert 5.9" to me. The mini-roof on P1 was the crux for me. I had a double rack to #3 camalot including nuts and seemed to use most things somewhere. I brought a #4, and although I placed it - I probably could have done without it.

Rap was easy with one rope. We had a 70m. With a 60m, watch the ends on the first rap.

Very well protected climbing.