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Dr Piton, do you ues the Yosemite Speed Weapon
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By Caz
Dec 14, 2007

I hear a ton of people talking about the speed weapon but have never tried it. The closest I've been to trying it is having a link cam on both of my aiders to do a thin hand crack. So do you use it and if so is there a "better way" to rig it?


Thanks Pete


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 14, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

The Yosemite Secret Weapon is a little trick the speed climbers use to climb easier aid more quickly. Have a look at the Yosemite Secret Weapon:



Illustration by Mike! Clelland

You can click here to read about the Yosemite Secret Weapon Tech Tip by Cedar Wright in Climbing Magazine.

It's a pretty good little trick, but I have never rigged it precisely thus. Your idea for "crack jugging" with a couple Link Cams is a good one - those cams have such amazing camming range [even if they're not the strongest things] that they are superb for that application. I would buy some if I could afford 'em.

But there are two reasons I don't use the Secret Weapon too often:

  • I seem to be climbing harder aid a lot of the time [A3 or harder]

  • I am such a chickenshit I hate to backclean ever!

I think the Secret Weapon would be great if you are climbing a lot of C1 and C2 routes. It would rock on the sweet cracks of Salathe Wall, Lurking Fear, and the Nose I should think.

Anyone else use it? If so, how do you find it?


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By Caz
Dec 14, 2007

Pete,

The link cams are awsome but I'm sure you got to use them on your wall with BatGirl. She's the on that turned me on to them. I love them so much that I bought 3 pairs.


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 15, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Do you think they are strong? They don't really look it. Also, one of her wires became separated from the plastic attachment to the cam, if I remember correctly. But the camming range is awesome, and they would be superb for C1 stuff like the Stovelegs. Remember when we switched to Camalots from Friends for crack jugging because of their greater expansion range?

[Batgirl is ETS]


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By Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Dec 15, 2007
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
Do you think they are strong? They don't really look it. Also, one of her wires became separated from the plastic attachment to the cam, if I remember correctly.


Perhaps you should have a look at this post and the related supertopo post, if you haven't already seen them. Crack jugging with them is also discussed there.


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By Caz
Dec 15, 2007

I've read all of the post about these cams and after I decided to bounce test all mine. I weigh 240 lbs and bounced the $hit out of them and nothing happened. So as far as I'm concerned I'm good with them.


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By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 15, 2007
Future Goal

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
[Batgirl is ETS]


Don't leave us hanging man... give us something to hold on to.


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 15, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Besides being a [part-time lard-assed has-been] climber, I am also an angler. And man, I love fishing.

Here is a picture of the second-last fish I caught, an 11-pound or so walleye from Lake Ontario's Bay of Quinte:


I don't have a picture of the last fish I caught, but his name is Jason. Hold onto the lure, Jason.

You can click here to know what ETS means, and why I think Batgirl is thus. Be sure to scroll down and check out the definition for TS without the E, as well. Beauty, eh?


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By Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Dec 15, 2007
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
Besides being a [part-time lard-assed has-been] climber, I am also an angler.


Oh geeze. It's almost like we need a Gumby Forum 101 course ;)

Don't you know that stuff doesn't belong under big walls, but here

Edit: That's huge. Ironically, there is a fishing show-off thread.


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By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 16, 2007
Future Goal

"Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok wrote:
You can click here to know what ETS means, and why I think Batgirl is thus. Be sure to scroll down and check out the definition for TS without the E, as well. Beauty, eh?


Pete,

Thats a lovely fish; its an honor to share it's namesake. And as nice as it is to see you holding such a beauty... I was hoping for the beauty of a big wall hottie. Prior to my above post I looked up ETS and that motivated me to dig deeper. Now as far as why you think batgirl is thus, my research has not revealed a sufficient answer. A man of your experience must know that learning is more fun and effective with stimulating visual aids. The above picture could arguably qualify for this, however if you're going to make bold statements such as batgirl is ETS then that should be supported with appropriate visuals.

Working on 'Getting It'... JH


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By J. Thompson
From denver, co
Dec 16, 2007
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.

I've used it...and probably will again...hell I've even used it climbing walls with the aforementioned "batgirl".

It does work pretty well for C1-2. The thing I liked the best was the taped open carabiner. I used the petzl spirit bent gates for lot's'o room. I found myself using them to attach myself to every piece I yarded on...nut's, cams, bolts, whatever. It really seemed to free up my movement more, not having to unclip anything!

It is a specialised tool, however. Knowing when to use it is key. If you just generically tried to use it on every aid climb you'd waste time instead of speeding things up.

Oh..and...."batgirl" is the shizzle because she's climbed a lot of elcap routes...including some very hard ones. You will most likely not find the "hottie" pics you're looking for. Not because she's unattractive, but more because she's to busy with the climbing to worry about taking "hottie" pics.

josh


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 19, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

Be sure to click on the photos to get the full-size view. Cheers, eh?

Jason Himick wrote:
Prior to my above post I looked up ETS and that motivated me to dig deeper. Now as far as why you think batgirl is thus, my research has not revealed a sufficient answer. A man of your experience must know that learning is more fun and effective with stimulating visual aids. The above picture could arguably qualify for this, however if you're going to make bold statements such as batgirl is ETS then that should be supported with appropriate visuals. Working on 'Getting It'... JH



What's not to like about Batgirl?



She solo leads A4 crux pitches in blocks, so I can keep busy cleaning and hauling, and not belaying...



...and when she's done leading it, she'll go back up and clean it, too.



She knows how to use her hooks, man...



...especially bathooks. I didn't start calling her "Batgirl" for nothin'



She can manage the worst Dr. Piton clusterfuck - when your Wank Factor tries to spiral out of control - and turn it into a vell-organicized belay. Note that the above gear is only our climbing gear out on the sharp end - all our pigs and camping gear are out of sight on a ledge below!



She's a cham-peen pig wrassler, which ya gotta be if yer gonna climb with me!



She can clean anything - even my all-day [or was it multi-day?!] lead - and arrive at the belay after dark with a perfectly racked gear sling.



When stymied by the intricate mechanics of a double-rope belay using an ATC, she rises to the challenge and finds another solution



She says she can't free climb, but she really can. I say I can't, and I really can't.



She is a friend to creatures great and small,



and she keeps smiling in even the most trying of circumstances.



Best of all, she never gets jealous! So is she's not ETS, I don't know who is.



Caveat:

If I have failed Guideline #1 and been a jerk for hijacking this thread, please let me know and I'll delete this post.

The photos are part of a long-awaited and much-requested trip report of our ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch this spring, and will appear in a separate post.

I just thought it would be a fun way to answer Jason's question above, and more significantly get me motivated to start editing and uploading photos!

Cheers,
Pete


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By Jason Himick
From Boulder, CO
Dec 19, 2007
Future Goal

Dude man,

You're TS for posting such fine visuals. Incontrovertible evidence that Batgirl is ETS. Damn dude, I'm envious. Big wall hottie for sure. Do I need to move to Yosemite to get in on some of this?

Complete wanker, wanna be YB,
JH


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By Avery N
From Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2007
Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.

Looks like the three of you (that is BatGirl, Pete and poor inflatable sheepy) had a blast up there! Sweet pics -- especially like the hooking pitch.

Thread-drift is common place around here. Prime example: check out the Lurkers suck thread.

Looking forward to that trip report.


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By Tea
Dec 20, 2007
just Jong it!

sweet pics Pete! Nice send!


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By Sirius
From Oakland, CA
Dec 20, 2007
Moving through the crux lock - now that's micro beta for you, that is.

The '...with a perfectly racked sling' photo is mind-boggling. That is a galaxy of protection to use on one pitch. I don't even want to think about what a pitch like that is like.

Very nice smile!


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By "Pass the Pitons" Pete Zabrok
From Oakville, Ontario
Dec 20, 2007
Left to right - me, Sam Adams, Thomas Huber, Alex Huber

We really did have fun up there, as you can see from her smile. Well, most of the time anyway....

...but there was this one time, and um, well, she yelled at me, and then, um, I yelled back, and um ...

Well, you'll have to wait for the trip report. One funny thing about the yelling is someone heard us shouting [because of the wind and all the roofs and corners and overhangs we had to contend with] and assumed we were fighting, and this got reported on McTopo. So we radioed the base to correct it.

I will state for the record that I didn't do much [if any] Secret Weaponing on the Ranch, because a lot of time the climbing was sustained and I wanted to leave every piece of pro I could. The photo of Kate with all the cleaned gear was a tricky pitch for me, but it also traverses a lot and the gentlemanly thing to do in such cases is not to backclean. Not that I ever backclean.



What I would like to know is if there is a way to defeat the automatic resizing on the board without uploading photos to Mountain Project? I see I can do it if I use Mountain Project to host, which I suppose I ought to do, I just wondered if I could do the same with an outside host like imageshack, where those photos are hosted.


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By skinner
From Calgary, AB
Dec 20, 2007
Profile photo

Wow, looks like a blast! I was trying to decide which photo I liked best, and just couldn't do it. If I ever put together that Big Wall Calendar I keep talking about,.. the "She can clean anything" and the "...especially bathooks" photos would definitely be ones that I'd love to include!

She looks totally solid up there, definitely ETS , and I have to agree with Sirius- "Very Nice Smile!


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