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Dr. Mindbender 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A X

   
Type:  Boulder, 40'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A X [details]
FA: Justin Jaeger
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Jun 10, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Dr Mindbender V6 X

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Approach the Lower Satellites. The first wall you pass on your left is the Sputnik Boulder. From the dead tree leaning up against the Sputnik Boulder, head downhill to the northwest to a north-facing cliffband.

Walk west along the cliffband maybe 10 or 20 yards until you come to a less-than-vertical 40-foot face with a thin seam that sports a piton down low. The seam peters-out well before you reach the "molting stegosaurus flakes" up high, so there is some disturbing face climbing in between.

Dr. Mindbender begins from a sds maybe 10 feet left of the crack. From the good horn, do a powerful low traverse to the right over to the crack. A few moves up near the piton you can catch your breath. The good news is the crux is over ... the bad news is the problem is nowhere near over. Ascend the seam until it peters out, then trend right on thin edges (5.10+/maybe 5.11- climbing) toward the conspicuous flakes that lead to the top.

Spread your pads out, and organize your spotters effectively, but your best move will be not to fall.

Protection 

Several huge crashpads and fearless spotters.


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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 24, 2002

Played on this problem again and the moves felt pretty stiff for V6...maybe just a weak day.

--Justin

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