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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Dr. Michael Solar 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Erickson and Walsh, 1970
Page Views: 1,861
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This is a nice steep crack with lots of face holds just left of Positively 4th Street. It is a great climb but quite short...25 feet tops....


Standard small rack.... Tree at top of small buttress anchor.

Photos of Dr. Michael Solar Slideshow Add Photo
Date:April 10,2003 <br />Halfway up the route. <br />Photographer:Joe Sprague
Date:April 10,2003
Halfway up the route.
Working the climb back down after topping out.
Working the climb back down after topping out.
Good fun.
Good fun.
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2012
By Tyler Jones
Jan 1, 2001

There is one move on it that is MAYBE a 5.7, otherwise I would give it more like a 5.5. Rossiter gives this one a star, I'm not sure why. However, this would be a great route for beginners that want to set up a top rope. Hike around to the left and carefully follow the top of the rock around to the right to a tree with slings.

By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Apr 14, 2002

I'll second the great beginner lead.... short, but you could probably put a dozen pieces in it nonetheless...

By James Balasalle
Sep 30, 2002

I thought this was a fun route and my first Eldo 5.7 lead. I even took a lead fall (I know, I suck), but the pro is amazing, so it was fine. Defintely a good place to start leading 5.7's. And it's even vertical for a while.

By Anonymous Coward
May 23, 2003

This route also has value for the aspiring soloist. Short with postive holds and a simple walk off.

By Merlin
From: Grand Junction
Mar 9, 2007

This is a good route for people breaking into Eldo 7s. It can be totally sewn up with a red Alien, a number 1 BD, and a set of nuts. It offered me good practice at placing gear under slightly grippy circumstances.

By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Mar 8, 2008

Needs to be longer, but a good route if you are already in the area.

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I think the 5.7 rating is appropriate. A fun steep climb with lots of jugs. Walk off is easy. A good beginner place. It's too short though.

By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 22, 2008

Fun climb. Plus from the tree anchor you can traverse a few feet south and build a trad anchor to top rope Positively Fourth Street with if no one in your party is feeling up to leading that route. You can also back up your anchor with a long sling to the tree. When you're done simply take down your anchor and walk off carefully to the north.

By grant.rudd
From: boulder, CO
Feb 4, 2009

Very reminiscent of a gym route, with good pro all the way up. I found it to take small nuts and a small cam. +1 to a great begninner lead. My first Eldo 5.7 on lead, although it didnt feel like one.

By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great climb, but like most say, it really is too short. I would caution beginner leaders that the gear is quite small throughout, though you can find spots for bigger nuts and even a #1 BD. Still, everything is solid and as long as you have a few small nuts and small cams you should be able to sew it up.

By Greg Miller
From: boulder, co
Oct 8, 2012

A short pitch that can be made a bit longer with enjoyable moderate climbing by climbing the small rotten roof behind the tree, once you get to the ledge and follow a left-facing corner/crack to the walk off for stuff like Pony Express.