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Dr. Know 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: susan peplow on Jan 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Me on Dr. Know. This route was way awkward


Route is easily identifiable by bolt line. All bolts seem to clip from the left. This route is awkward and you are nearly forced to use one arm gastons. Extremely difficult to see holds and bolts during low sun in the winter.


First route on left on south face of Sunnyside crag - directly next to .12a "Red Hot". SCSG 3rd edition route 824


4 bolts to shut anchors

Photos of Dr. Know Slideshow Add Photo
"Dr. Know". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Dr. Know". Photo by Blitzo.
Soo on Dr. Know. Photo by Blitzo.
Soo on Dr. Know. Photo by Blitzo.
Soo on Dr. Know. Photo by Blitzo.
Soo on Dr. Know. Photo by Blitzo.
Me on Dr. Know. This route was way awkward
Me on Dr. Know. This route was way awkward

Comments on Dr. Know Add Comment
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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Jan 28, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Awkward and leaning... sun adds three letter grades for sure. Bring welders goggles if you plan of seeing any holds out to your left as the sun is going down.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

This route should be called Dr. NO! Do the route to the right as it's much cleaner and enjoyable IMO.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 28, 2007

Awkward with most holds seeming to face the wrong way. If you gotta do this one, try it in morning or midday, the afternoon sun problem ain't no joke.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Nov 23, 2007

totally concur with my fellow JTree residents...AWKWARD to say the least...interesting and fun though...and IMHO...it's HARDER than the 10c to the right.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Dr. Know spanked me on lead but this is a great route! Sustained .10a followed by sustained .10b; that crossing move at the third bolt is mind blowing. The fact that the holds all face the wrong way is exactly what makes this climb memorable! I highly recommend this route.
By C Miller
Feb 24, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

More technical than strenuous but not the most enjoyable route with it's tedious lower section, fortunately the upper section redeems it slightly.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 28, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Did this route in the sun, just read the comment now. I agree - the sun adds a lot of spice as most of the feet felt very slick, and all of the holds were facing the wrong direction for the feet. Felt 10+ or 11- for sure. Reminded me of frustration creek climbs. Good variety compared to the typical routes in the area!
By Clif Clap
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I gave it a 10b/c as the some of the feet were quite slippery. I also climbed it in the sun so perhaps that's why. Though I agree it's awkward in parts, notably between the second and third anchors, the moves are there and work your mind a bit to figure them out. It's at least worth doing once.
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