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World Wall
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Dr. Evil 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Erik Kubiak (or Mike Orr???)
Page Views: 1,836
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008

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Description 

Diverging from Chronic after the second or third bolt, the easy beginning is about all the two routes have in common. Get ready to weld some really small crimps to the wall during the powerful and gently overhanging sequence leading to the roof. Get back what you can and make difficult moves above the roof that lead to a fairly sustained crux section. Although somewhat contrived, the original line tackles another difficult boulder problem above a rest at the end of the first crux. It is probably more sensible, however, to reach about 4 feet right to jugs on the Oval Orifice route and bypass the boulder problem.

Location 

Heads right from the second bolt of Chronic.

Protection 

Bolts, currently fixed. I believe there are 12 bolts and lower-off hooks.


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