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Dr. Evil 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JBaker, Miles Kunkel, CSnyder, JShiefman, Darek, July 1999
Page Views: 1,141
Submitted By: jbak on Jun 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Cres getting tunnel vision on Dr. Evil.

Description 

Cruxy start in little offset cave then over a bulge to a good rest. Blank headwall leads up toward roof which is skirted on its right side. To avoid rope drag at the lip of the little cave, you can reach back and unclip bolt 2 once you have clipped bolt 3. And your belayer can unclip bolt 1 at the same time. Overhangs 25 feet although it does not feel that steep.

Location 

Right-most route of those starting on the really steep part of the SW face.

Protection 

11 bolts plus chains. Probably best to pre-clip the 2nd bolt.


Photos of Dr. Evil Slideshow Add Photo
Cres powering through the tech crux of Dr. Evil in...
Cres powering through the tech crux of Dr. Evil in...
the great gaston
the great gaston

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 23, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

It's evil all right!
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

That might be saying something about Cres-sent or my steep rock abilities. Probably the latter since The Crossing has to be 12d or 13a based on the number of attempts it took me to redpoint it.
By jbak
Aug 12, 2008

Well Eric, another STRONG climber was swearing at this route when I was up there recently. He claimed it was harder than Cres-sent and harder than Eureka (!) So maybe 12a/b is a sandbag. Cres agreed with that rating though. And Miles said it was 5.11.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I want to get on it again and see how it feels. STRONG climber might have emptied the tank red-pointing Delt melt in the rain. The last ten feet had to be hard covered in water. Plus he wasn't taking the obvious rest down low which has to cost you some power later on.