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 ADVANCED
Rigid Designator Amphitheatre
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Dolly Madison" S 
"Unnamed" S 
7th Chakra T,S 
7th Testicle T,S 
Aberrant Behavior aka LoweKey Lunacy 
Amphibian T 
Built for Comfort S 
Choss Corner S 
Cupcake Corner S 
Dr. Delicate T 
Fang, The T 
Fatman and Robin 
Flying Fortress, The S 
For The Ladies S 
Godzilla T 
Hooded Cobra 
King Cobra/King Cobra Extension S 
Little Higher S 
Lucky S 
Octopussy T 
Pitch Black T 
Red Beard S 
Red Bull and Vodka S 
Reptile T 
Resurrection 
Rigid Designator T 
Rigid Designator Steps, The T 
Seventh Tentacle T 
Somnambulist T 
Superfortress S 
Tatranka 
Thang aka Frigid Inseminator, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dr. Delicate 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c WI5 M6+ PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c WI5 M6+ [details]
FA: ???
Season: Winter/Early Spring
Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Noah8000 on Feb 15, 2012

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Onto the unprotectable thin ice on Dr. Delicate.

Description 

Dr. Delicate is an obscure "classic" located to the left of the Rigid Designator. It may be the farthest left route. It's hard to catch this one in condition. When "in", it sports some difficult thin ice.

After a bit of climbing, the one and only bolt is clipped, then to a so so angle piton. Then it's your gear from then on. (Though a recent piton has been placed by Stanley.) The crux is keeping it together as you must climb some vertical ice and run it out a bit until a screw can be placed. The dry tooling is very delicate, and it's easy to not pick the easiest way. Once the roof is reached, the tool placements are a little more solid.

If the route is really well formed, you can continue on thin ice and rock heading right after the pillar to the top. I've heard going right is M7R (forgot what this variation is called) and heading straight out the roof is M9R.

Usually the route ends at the top of the ice and you V-thread off.

The name couldn't be more true about the line. It will humble all who expect to find solid hooks.

Location 

This is the smear to the left of the Rigid Designator.

Protection 

Some TCUs and a 0.4 C4 cam fits perfectly into a questionable block at the roof. You won't need to many screws on this one.


Photos of Dr. Delicate Slideshow Add Photo
Phil Wortmann working the crux sections.
Phil Wortmann working the crux sections.

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