Dr. Carl 5.10-
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Alf |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Apr 13, 2002 |
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Mack truckin Dr. Carl
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Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
Important - Stay off the part of the wall that faces the road. If you are looking down at the water, then you shouldn’t be there. Access is touchy. Yes, there are good climbs there, but no, you don’t want to ruin access for everyone and there are just a few hundred other good climbs in the Creek.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.
Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.
The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.
Protection This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."
From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Dr. Carl's twin cracks.
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Tony Bubb starts up on the thin beginning of 'Doct...
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So good!
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By Rich Farnham
Apr 20, 2003
| I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby. |
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 28, 2003
| I agree that this should get two stars. Lots of variety in the moves...not your typical plug-n-chug. |
By Bryan Gall
From: New Castle, CO
Oct 10, 2003
| I believe this route was called "Dr. Carl"; back in the day of plaques and such... |
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 29, 2005
| Nice climb overall. However, when I climbed this last week (nov 23 2005) the large flake towards the top 1/4 of the route flexed enough to make me not want to yard on it, even though there was a ton of chalk on it, at the least I would advise not placing gear behind this. |
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007
| Okay route just no jamming. Good face climbing. |
By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.10-
| This has a little something for everyone (except us Vedauwoo offwidth freaks). I really enjoyed the variety at the grade. |
By Gavin Ferguson
From: Portland, OR
Oct 16, 2008
| FA of Dr. Carl was done by Alf Randell. We all know Alf! |
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Mar 23, 2009
| A nice warmup. I'd recommend a couple smaller pieces - green and yellow alien sized. |
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.10-
| This route is varied with stemming and finger jamming. I think this route is really fun and a great warm up for the harder finger cracks at reservoir wall. If you are looking to climb a low-end 5.10 at the creek, this might be the best one. |
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