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Reservoir Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Arrival T 
Carruthers-Hauser T 
Cyborg T 
Dr. Carl T 
Dreadasaurus T 
Ernie Used to Box T 
Excuse Station T 
Finger Food T 
From Switzerland With Love T 
Frosted Flakes T 
Good Excuse T 
Gurka T 
Left Crack T 
Less Than Zero T 
Machete T 
Marvelous! T 
Middle Crack T 
Mud dahbber  T 
Ninja T 
No Excuse T 
Overlook, The T 
Pat's Crack T 
Pente T 
Pirate Treasure  T 
Raja T 
Rez Dawgs T 
Sharka Zulu T 
Skank on the Hanglow T 
Slot Machine T 
Sumo T 
Three Fools T 
Trust it T 
Unknown T 
Unknown 2 pitch route left of 3 fools T 
Unknown 5.10 T 
Unknown 5.11- (really long thin hands corner) T 
Unknown Offwidth R of wigglin' worm T 
Unnamed 38 - wide to fists and kind of wavy T 
Unnamed 5.10 ( 45 in 2013 Edition) T 
Unnamed 5.10 (Bloom Route 12) - popular hands corner T 
Warm-Up Handcrack T 
Wigglin' Worm T 
Will-Mento T 

Dr. Carl 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alf
Page Views: 3,395
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 13, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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Mack truckin Dr. Carl

  • Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. MORE INFO >>>
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Find the route Wigglin' Worm and look just about 40 feet to the left. You will see a set of chalked up thin cracks, near the ground. These twin cracks are thin and delicate at the base. Protect with a .5" or smaller cam behind a thin flake for pro on the left, and climb up a bit higher to good gear.

    Stem, layback, and jam up between the opposing flakes and cracks for about 70', until the right-hand side slopes over to a ledge with an anchor.

    The moves are reasonably easy, but require a little bit of power here and there. One could argue that this route is 5.9.


    This route is pretty secure and offers reasonable good gear in a variety of sizes, I double set of cams .5 to 3" should suffice to protect the route if you do not have an "Indian Creek rack."

    From the ground, the route appears to require all small gear, but the 'invisible' crack on the left will take gear from 2-3" for the top half of the route.

    Photos of Dr. Carl Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Carl's twin cracks.
    BETA PHOTO: Dr. Carl's twin cracks.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dr. Carl
    Dr. Carl
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb starts up on the thin beginning of 'Doct...
    Tony Bubb starts up on the thin beginning of 'Doct...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Me on Dr. Carl
    Me on Dr. Carl
    Rock Climbing Photo: So good!
    So good!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sam typically throws his cams at the wall until th...
    Sam typically throws his cams at the wall until th...

    Comments on Dr. Carl Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Rich Farnham
    Apr 20, 2003

    I'd have to vote for two stars on this one. It's not the best route at the crag, but the moves are a lot of fun. It makes a great warm-up for the other classics nearby.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 28, 2003

    I agree that this should get two stars. Lots of variety in the moves...not your typical plug-n-chug.
    By Bryan Gall
    From: New Castle, CO
    Oct 10, 2003

    I believe this route was called "Dr. Carl"; back in the day of plaques and such...
    By Danny Inman
    From: Arvada
    Nov 29, 2005

    Nice climb overall. However, when I climbed this last week (nov 23 2005) the large flake towards the top 1/4 of the route flexed enough to make me not want to yard on it, even though there was a ton of chalk on it, at the least I would advise not placing gear behind this.
    By JoshuaTreeRunner
    From: Los Angeles
    Nov 26, 2007

    Okay route just no jamming. Good face climbing.
    By BretWith1T
    From: Laramie, Wyoming
    Sep 21, 2008
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This has a little something for everyone (except us Vedauwoo offwidth freaks). I really enjoyed the variety at the grade.
    By Gavin Ferguson
    From: Portland, OR
    Oct 16, 2008

    FA of Dr. Carl was done by Alf Randell. We all know Alf!
    By Kat A
    From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
    Mar 23, 2009

    A nice warmup. I'd recommend a couple smaller pieces - green and yellow alien sized.
    By Ben Griffin
    From: Durango, CO
    Sep 5, 2011
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    This route is varied with stemming and finger jamming. I think this route is really fun and a great warm up for the harder finger cracks at reservoir wall. If you are looking to climb a low-end 5.10 at the creek, this might be the best one.
    By Optimistic
    From: New Paltz
    Mar 18, 2015

    We were well stocked on gear 0.75 and below, and as a result sewed it up with nothing bigger than that. I thought this route was pretty solid 10 (but I suck at stemming). Quality route.

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