Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Hammock S 
Dozer Days S 
Kitty Toe S 
Pla Lek S 
Strangle Hold S 
Techno Bug S 
Wacky Weed S 

Dozer Days 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Cecil and party
Page Views: 1,028
Submitted By: richard magill on Jun 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The awesome finish of Dozer Days
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Really great line, I loved this route.

Climbs up a steep juggy section followed by a long arete with reachy moves. Great slapping back and forth, with a full-on leg thread to get a really good rest near the top of the first pitch- right in the steep part.

The "extension" pitch is only worth doing if you are going to climb at the "Golden Ball." Otherwise it's a bit contrived with more rope-drag that good/hard climbing.


Location 

The second route from the left side of the wall.


Protection 

Pitch 1: 9 bolts, 1 thread
Pitch 2: 2 bolts, 1 thread



Photos of Dozer Days Slideshow Add Photo
Moving right on the wild bit.
Moving right on the wild bit.
Leading Dozer Days transitioning from the pump to the wild.
Leading Dozer Days transitioning from the pump to ...
Pretty steep this bit here.
Pretty steep this bit here.
The juggy, overhanging start of Dozer Days.
The juggy, overhanging start of Dozer Days.
Comments on Dozer Days Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ken H
From: Bell's Canyon, UT
Feb 24, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The lead is a little scary, the party behind us thought so too. Info here on second pitch is wrong. It is more like 3 threads and 4 bolts. To do it as 1 pitch it would be less than 60 m but the rope drag would be horrible.

From the top of pitch 1 go up then traverse right, pass a bail point with a bunch of threads and bail biners/quick link, go straight up from here to one more thread, this leads to an amazing belay ledge in the Golden Ball. You can access the climbs of the Golden Ball from here for one more pitch of 6a+, 6b+, or 7b.

We rappelled with one 60 meter rope. It requires back clipping to get back to the top of pitch 1. The rappel from the top of pitch 1 was about 28 m.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Feb 27, 2011
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Thanks for the comment Ken. I cleaned up the description... at least that's how I remember it. If I'm wrong someone please let me know.

Hopefully this wall will be getting Titanium soon, but it's out of my hands for now.