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DescriptionNew crag in 2010. Part of the main wall on the North side of the road above the Switchback (upper Canyon). Half a mile down cliff from Slavery and 300 yards or so down from Metropolis. Currently 35 routes with room for a few more. 11 routes in the John Henry Grotto at the far left, 9 routes in Coolsville area, 9 on the Cigar, 2 on the Nugget and 4 at Vulvus Godzillicus. Sunny in the morning and shady in the afternoon. The Cigar is a free standing pillar with routes on the inside, facing the cliff, so it is shady all day. Getting ThereThere is a large parking lot a half mile down the road from the main (Slavery) parking lot on the southern side of the road. Find a trail angling up the hillside toward the cliff. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Downtown:
Floyd Direct 5.12a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Cigar
The Gravy Train 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet The Cigar
Heartbreaker 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet John Henry Grotto
Have A Sneegar 5.12c Sport, 65 feet The Cigar
Shagadelic 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet John Henry Grotto
The Name of the Game 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Cigar
Shaker 5.13 Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet John Henry Grotto
Featured Route For Downtown
??? 5.10 WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Cigar
Start in the crack above the 5.10b chalk sign. Slabble dabble up to the vertical wall. Hit the wall and expect sustained 5.10 climbing to the chains. This route is sharp!...[more] Browse More Classics in WY |