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 ADVANCED
Upper Peanuts
Routes Sorted
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Ace Of Spades 
Advanced Rockcraft 
Cardinal Richelieu 
Cruise, The 
Downstairs 
Gravity's Angel 
Heavy Weather 
Martyr's Arena 
Sunrider 
Through and Through 
Twilight 
Twilight Variation 
Upstairs 

Downstairs 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: George Bracksieck, Jay Mather, Dale Lindhart
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Tombo on May 8, 2011
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the left-facing dihedral to the right of Heavy Weather. Climb the obtuse dihedral using many large face holds straight up to a flake which you climb through on the right side. Finish through the rotten yellow band with a right-rising hand crack.

Currently the route is lichen covered and climbs through a typical Peanuts loose rock bands. Would be an OK climb if it saw more activity. My one star rating reflects what it could be, if climbed more and cleaned up.


Location 

If not continuing up, either rap from tree at the top of the pitch or traverse off right (lots of loose rock.)


Protection 

SR.



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By Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I gave this route a 5.7 rating, because I actually climbed the start of Heavy Weather and bypassed the 5.9 dihedral by going right into the squeeze section formed by the flake. I would not recommend doing this variation as the rope drag was terrible. I would, however, give the beginning of Heavy Weather 2.5 stars!