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Blue Steel 
Clear the Deck 
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Dangerous Acquaintances 
Downpressor Man 
Evangeline 
Fire and Ice  
Gem, The 
Guardian Saint 
Guen-Ice  
Guenese 
Hands In The Clouds 
Huck Off 
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Wisdom, The 

Downpressor Man 

5.12b

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Mar 30, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb Guenese to the first bolt passing a pin en route. Follow two more bolts straight up to the anchor. A pin can be clipped after the last bolt for the run to the anchor. Crimpy and powerful. Maybe a little spanny for the vertically challenged. Best not done on a hot day in the sun.


Protection 

Two pins and three bolts.



Comments on Downpressor Man Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 2, 2003

Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 2, 2003

Drop a star for the brevity of the killer climbing and the indirect start and finish.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 3, 2003

Seemed especially reachy for a middle-aged, average-strength, +2 ape, 5'10" climber.

By Anonymous Coward
May 18, 2005

Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Apr 27, 2011

I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move.

By Noah8000
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.12b

That crux move is killing me. Avoid in the summer afternoon. I didn't and found myself trying to stick the crux reach when the rock was all greasy. If only I was a little tiny bit taller, I'd be able to nail it on redpoint.

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Aug 28, 2012

Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique).

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.12b

Leo,

This route is classic Eldo funk, and I mean that in the most endearing way. It's only reachy if you don't utilize the inobvious intermediates and sequential movement. I've done this climb dozens of times, and I never get tired of it. It's a one-move-dominant route with really fun movement up to the crux.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 14, 2013

Ken, I recall watching Mark do this without all the intermediates, and that is why I commented as above.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Apr 15, 2013
rating: 5.12b

(Y)