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Downpressor Man 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,298
Submitted By: Jim Redo on Mar 30, 2003

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  • Description 

    Climb Guenese to the first bolt passing a pin en route. Follow two more bolts straight up to the anchor. A pin can be clipped after the last bolt for the run to the anchor. This is crimpy and powerful, maybe a little spanny for the vertically challenged. It is best not done on a hot day in the sun.


    Two pins and three bolts.

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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 18, 2014
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Apr 2, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Hmmm.. How did this little classic escape posting here for so long? Thin, super-crisp edges separated by long pulls on a vertical wall add up to a fine sequence. The line looses a litle in continuity from the initial traverse leading into the perfect stone in the mid section and from the slightly odd finish that traverses back left. For my taste, it has always seemed reasonable to place a separate anchor at the bona fide top of Downpressor and skip the final traverse. DM is a nifty line for working the feet and the crimp strength.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Apr 2, 2003
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Drop a star from three to two for the brevity of the killer climbing and the indirect start and finish.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 3, 2003

    Seemed especially reachy for a middle-aged, average-strength, +2 ape, 5'10" climber.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 18, 2005

    Eric Goukas showed me this line shortly before he died. I took Rolofson up there and we decided to bolt it. I think Rolofson didn't have enough money for the bolts so I bought some of them. Back then I was content to top rope it and call it a climb...The bolt thing was not really big.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Apr 27, 2011

    I think this route is pretty reachy for shorties like me. I swear, just two more inches and I would be able to nail the crux move.
    By Noah8000
    From: Vail, CO
    Sep 5, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    That crux move is killing me. Avoid in the summer afternoon. I didn't and found myself trying to stick the crux reach when the rock was all greasy. If only I was a little tiny bit taller, I'd be able to nail it on redpoint.
    By reboot
    From: Westminster, CO
    Aug 28, 2012

    Those who complain about reach should know how tall the OP is (probably shorter than you!). Regardless, it doesn't climb that well if you are short (ends being more about how strong the fingers are than any semblance of balance & technique).
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Apr 13, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    One-trick pony with fun climbing to the crux. I like the traverse climbing to the anchors.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Apr 14, 2013

    Ken, I recall watching Mark do this without all the intermediates, and that is why I commented as above.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Mar 31, 2014

    Almost clocked my belayer with a cherry pie slice sized piece of rock after the crux. Just cuz it's been there awhile doesn't mean some dumbass like myself can't rip it off!
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 23, 2014
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Can't believe that there is not one photo of this classic posted here. Time to change that. Went out there, today. Still love this route. Super high quality, classic, Eldo trickery.
    From: Denver Colorad
    Nov 18, 2014
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

    The rock on this climb is beautiful, chocolate looking swirls. For shorter people, I can totally see 12b, but for us tall guys, I'd have to say 12a, a spicy one especially on the sharp end. Three bolts, three pins, and a two bolt anchor with steel rings. The stainless steel glue in bolt at the crux is confidence inspiring and also allows you to thread and lower if you can't get past the crux.

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