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This line requires an interesting mix of techniques. Use the bare face for solid slabby feet, but use the corner arete for a good crimp, and shimmy your way up to the solid dike under the arete. Pull up and reach on top of the arete and for another good crimp to top out.
This is on the east side of the gully, directly across from The Beast From The East.
3 bolts and TR anchors.
Mar 3, 2012
A Doug Millen/ Herb Stillman line. Doug did the original version (5.8) of this route with a single bolt at half height, using the left arete to pull up to the central clipping jug. Herb did the same line... without using the arete at all. Herb says the direct slab line up goes at 5.10, though I feel a 5.11(+) is not a stretch at all!