Great route! Dovercourt is located at the very top of the Lower Tower and climbs to the highest point on the rock. Start opposite of a large dihedral at the base of the Upper Tower (the start of Betty and Ray's Adventure) at the base of a smooth, steep face.
The climb generally follows the thin, discontinuous cracks up the center of the face. Start left of the dihedral and climb the face to a small flake/overhang (good cam placement in the horizontal crack). Continue up past the route's lone bolt on small ledges. Above the bolt, the cracks tend to flare, and protection is more difficult to find (mostly small stoppers and TCUs in horizontal placements). Near the top, you can reach to the left and find some great hands on the arÍte. Finish at a two-bolt anchor just below the top and rap with a single rope (you can also down climb class 4 along the northwest corner). Fun route with thin holds and protection.
Small cams, TCUs, small stoppers and micronuts. One bolt and rappel anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Below Dovercourt.
About mid-way up the route. This is where the rou...
Just above the route's one bolt.
Dovercourt, Lower Sun Tower, Unaweep Canyon.
|By Matt Ting|
Oct 8, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Great route indeed - highlight of a day spent on the lower tower. The location is awesome with amazing views that add some exposure and excitement to this short route. True to the rating, nice horizontal cracks where you need them, good feet, good protection to be found (used 2 nuts, 3 s/med cams). For pure enjoyment, best 5.7 I've been on in awhile.
|By Jeremy Werlin|
May 17, 2010
Very high quality--pro may be tricky for a budding 5.7 leader. Excellent clean polished rock. Good shade route. Bring lots of small/micro cams.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Sep 17, 2013
Just want to mirror to comments, this is a stellar single pitch 5.7.
A must do if you're looking for a good moderate in the valley.