Doug's Variation  5.9-

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  ? Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Jul 7, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is a variation off Rancid that veers right after clipping the fourth bolt. Doug Redosh looked at it the last time we were up there wondering if it would go. It does, and it's better than it looks from below.

Climb up along Rancid's 1st half. Angle up along a nice crack, making one awkward move. Finish up pulling on the top of the wall with your left hand and on a funky, big block with your right. Move left to anchor off the pole and a orange Alien/#0.75-sized piece.

Obviously, since this was fairly clean, this could have been climbed by someone else. If it is your route, let me know and we'll fix the name.

Location 

Start as for Rancid, and move right at half height.

Protection 

4 bolts, finger-sized cams or wires. Orange Alien or #0.75 Camalot, the pole, and 48" slings for your anchor.