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Hungover Wall - Right Side
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boilermaker 
Conscious Projection 
Doug's Dilemma 
Easy Crack 
Gravitational Humiliation 
Jim Beam Arete 
Particle Acceleration 
Pressure Drop  
Ripples in Time  
Segments in Space 
Straight, No Chaser 
Suspended Animation 
Under Pressure  

Doug's Dilemma 

5.13a

   
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Type: Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.13a [details]
FA: (TR) Steve DiMarino, 1998 (?), FL: Brian Cullen, June 2002
Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 29, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for Hungover Wall - Right Side, Keller ...

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Description 

Just right of Gravitational Humiliation and left of Boilermaker is this difficult route, with distinctive gold-colored hangers, that is one of only two 5.13 routes on the wall.

A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.

Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.


Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



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By Steve DiMarino
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 18, 2011

Was this bolted in 2002? I believe I climbed this in the late 1990's--like 1998--on a visit to California.