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Contest Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Dough Boys 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Dough Boys' slender profile.

Description 

This route is located on the left end of the contest wall just past "Liquid Pork" and can be spotted easily as it is a bolted crack with another bolt line just right (using first 2 bolts of this route). This route is fairly straight forward and a little dirty but decent. A good warm up, althought warming up on cracks for pocketed limestone may be a bit much... ?? Have fun with this one, and then move on to something better. Cheers.

Protection 

5 bolts (homemade painted red) - 2 bolt anchor. Per Brandon Schirm: This route was just rebolted and has around 11 bolts now.


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By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Apr 7, 2008

This route was just rebolted and has around 11 bolts now.
By Mike Dallin
Sep 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I found this to be a quality route, made safer with the recent retrobolt. Balancy climbing past the first two bolts (can stickclip the second) leads to jugs, then head underneath a roof (with some loose stuff - I broke off a foot and handhold in this area), turn the roof to the left and handjam/stem your way to the anchor. Watch for bird crap under the roof. I thought it was harder than 10a, and I would call it more like 10c. The 1990 Mark Van Horn guidebook called it 10c/d.
By Andy B
May 4, 2014

A little dark, but you can see most of the route e...
A little dark, but you can see most of the route except the balancy start. The roof is more of a mental move out left, and the dihedral has some big but pumpy holds.


Pretty long and fun route. It's got it all. Balancy slab moves at the bottom, heady roof, and some fun jams up the dihedral at the top.