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Dough Boy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Dough Boy from the road.

Description 

This is the hardest completed route at Gillman. Its shorter than most gym routes, and the upper half is mid-5.11, so basically you're lookin' at a 15 foot boulder problem, which explains this route's absurd popularity. The route is hard right off the ground with a tricky move to get established. The crux comes about 6 feet off the deck with dynamic moves to small, slopey crimps. Stick clip highly recommended.

The route is listed as 13c in the guide book (Jemez Rock, by J. Marc Beverly, Sharp End Publishing), but its more like light duty 13b. I doubt very much this route would be given a grade any harder than 13a at Rifle, but hey, this is NM.

The route faces west, and so is probably climbable year round (I did it in July). Given the narrow-ness of the canyon, in winter it probably only sees brief sun.

Location 

This route is about 50 feet downstream from Puddy Girl, on the East side of the river. The trail from the Broken Arrow and Perp areas does not continue to Dough Boy, so to approach, begin from the road, locate the route, and cross the river about 10 feet downstream from the route.

Protection 

4 QDs


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By Matthew NM
Jul 3, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This is the best short route I've ever done and the moves and quality of the rock merit more than two stars. The first ascentionist called it .13a, and so does everyone I know who has done it. Not sure why Bev called it .13C in his new guide...
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jul 9, 2007

Matthew,

Welcome to MP. There's a green box in the upper right-hand corner that allows each user to "vote" on each route. you can indicate what you think the appropriate grade or number of stars should be. You are alos welcome to explain your vote by posting a comment.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

I would say that the route is closer to 40 feet and only the top 10 or possibly 15 are easy so you are looking at 25+ feet of very sustained bouldering. Lance who put the route up describies the route as every move being V5 till you get to the broken rock up by the last bolt. I'm not sure if every move is V5 but they are all difficult in there own way. I found the crux to be more around the roof than the long pull to the slashing seam a couple of moves lower that Mono mentions, but that is a body size thing, sometimes long arms help and other times they get in the way, though they definitely help more often than not.
By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

In my opinion, I would rate the route 13b. For a short and bouldery route, I would compare it to Entertaining Mike Tyson or Dragon Slayer. Bottom move from horizontal to vertical groove felt V6-7 ish. Move between center horizontals felt V5-6 ish.