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This route ascends some of the best rock at the shady side. Unfortunately the route only has 2 or 3 really challenging moves (for a route of this grade). Begin with big moves on enormous jugs, to a stance just below the lip of the bulge. Rest what you can, then turn the bulge on small holds, and a cool rock-over move. The crux is getting established on the headwall, from where trivial moves lead up and left to the anchor.
2nd route right of Pipsqueak, or 3rd route from the left.
Bolts. Pre-clipping is mandatory.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Very Cool and Stiff crux, probably V6 or low end V7. The crux hold is pretty neat, with enough imagination you can almost see it being tufa formation.