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Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
Routes Sorted
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Bloody Fingers T 
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Double Vision T,S 
Mystery Achievement S 
New Toy S 
Twist and Crawl T 

Double Vision 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle 1986
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Hiiiigh Steppin' on Double Vision.

Description 

This is the first sport climb to the left of Bloody Fingers. There is ground fall potential reaching the 3 bolt, so be careful.

That being said, this is a very fun route. It starts out with some thin moves, before reaching a quartz dike. The upper route can either follow the dike or the slab to the left. The well spaced bolts will lead you to a trad anchor on a ledge. Rap off of the anchors on top of Bloody Fingers.


Protection 

Draws and 3 smallest tricams (or equilvalent) for the anchor.


Photos of Double Vision Slideshow Add Photo
The wonderful dikes of Double Vision
The wonderful dikes of Double Vision

Comments on Double Vision Add Comment
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By Brian in SLC
Oct 4, 2009

This ain't no "sport" climb....

I think Reid climbed this in '86. Then...me. Yee haa!
By zoso
Oct 4, 2009

Seemed like there was a tiny nut placement in there somewhere. I led it before I had such equipment, so it was a little hairy to say the least.
By Blitzo
Aug 23, 2010

Not great, but good.
By Russell Fogle
From: Boise, ID
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Typical delicate granite slab climbing. Scary fall potential. Small dish on top near the edge that you can brace your feet in for a belay, the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable.
By zoso
Oct 20, 2013

"the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable."

Bullshit. Much more interesting to build an anchor.
By Jack Lazar
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014

As of two days ago, this route definitely had bolted anchors. Also, I'd argue that the ≈ 1 foot wide quartz dike running straight up the wall, just to the right of the bolt line, greatly increases the route's aesthetic value and the overall experience. If you're looking for something to climb that's in the range of Bloody Fingers, you should at the very least drop a rope on this grippy bad boy if you don't feel comfortable leading it. 60 meters will serve you fine.