|Super Hits - Bloody Fingers
This is the first sport climb to the left of Bloody Fingers. There is ground fall potential reaching the 3 bolt, so be careful.
That being said, this is a very fun route. It starts out with some thin moves, before reaching a quartz dike. The upper route can either follow the dike or the slab to the left. The well spaced bolts will lead you to a trad anchor on a ledge. Rap off of the anchors on top of Bloody Fingers.
Draws and 3 smallest tricams (or equilvalent) for the anchor.
The wonderful dikes of Double Vision
|By Brian in SLC|
Oct 4, 2009
This ain't no "sport" climb....
I think Reid climbed this in '86. Then...me. Yee haa!
Oct 4, 2009
Seemed like there was a tiny nut placement in there somewhere. I led it before I had such equipment, so it was a little hairy to say the least.
Aug 23, 2010
Not great, but good.
|By Russell Fogle|
From: Boise, ID
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R
Typical delicate granite slab climbing. Scary fall potential. Small dish on top near the edge that you can brace your feet in for a belay, the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable.
Oct 20, 2013
"the addition of anchors would make this route a bit more enjoyable."
Bullshit. Much more interesting to build an anchor.
|By Jack Lazar|
From: Portland, OR
Jun 28, 2014
As of two days ago, this route definitely had bolted anchors. Also, I'd argue that the ≈ 1 foot wide quartz dike running straight up the wall, just to the right of the bolt line, greatly increases the route's aesthetic value and the overall experience. If you're looking for something to climb that's in the range of Bloody Fingers, you should at the very least drop a rope on this grippy bad boy if you don't feel comfortable leading it. 60 meters will serve you fine.