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Double Vision / Ream Dream 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rick Smith, Lee Sheftel & Chris Vandiver, 10/89
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Pinching hard through the sustained, steep climbin...

Description 

Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tricky lower section to high first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs and sometimes are a bit dirty.
Staying on the face is 5.11c. Reportedly, using the arete on the right makes it 5.10d-ish although right at the finish there's an obvious hold on the arete that I consider on route for 5.11c.


Location 

The steep, pocketed face right of "No Exit" and left of "Cholla Wall". Shown as route number 9 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

5 bolts to a bolted anchor.



Photos of Double Vision / Ream Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Nearing the top of the route where the holds feel less secure and wall gets a bit steeper. December 2009.
Nearing the top of the route where the holds feel ...
Rob Rhine on Double Vision. Nice lycra.
Rob Rhine on Double Vision. Nice lycra.
Comments on Double Vision / Ream Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Wachter
Mar 4, 2008

Really nice climbing on small pockets with a wicked increasing angle up top. Do keep off the arete - the climbing up the face is great, and no scary fall.

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 23, 2010

I'm curious about the name. Is it really "Double Vision/Ream Dream" or is "Double Vision" the hard 11 straight up the face and "Ream Dream" is the hard 10 that has the arete on? Or is it something else altogether?

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 23, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

From the original guide , Double Vision is the face only (arete = off). Ream Dream includes the arete. The name Double Vision cleverly suggests 2 ways to climb it.

For me, there's one hold near the top that is almost on the arete that I pretty much need for the climb to go, but it isn't too hard to avoid the arete the rest of the way.

By Naomi Galinski
Oct 28, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I tried climbing the route without using the arete completely, but that would make the top waaaaaaaaay harder than an 11c. So I second everyone's opinion and think that you can grab the arete near the top for one move as part of Double Vision.