Pinching hard through the sustained, steep climbin...
Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tricky lower section to high first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs and sometimes are a bit dirty. Staying on the face is 5.11c. Reportedly, using the arete on the right makes it 5.10d-ish although right at the finish there's an obvious hold on the arete that I consider on route for 5.11c.
I'm curious about the name. Is it really "Double Vision/Ream Dream" or is "Double Vision" the hard 11 straight up the face and "Ream Dream" is the hard 10 that has the arete on? Or is it something else altogether?
By George Perkins From: Los Alamos, NM Jun 23, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
From the original guide , Double Vision is the face only (arete = off). Ream Dream includes the arete. The name Double Vision cleverly suggests 2 ways to climb it.
For me, there's one hold near the top that is almost on the arete that I pretty much need for the climb to go, but it isn't too hard to avoid the arete the rest of the way.
I tried climbing the route without using the arete completely, but that would make the top waaaaaaaaay harder than an 11c. So I second everyone's opinion and think that you can grab the arete near the top for one move as part of Double Vision.