|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Steve Marr on Jun 17, 2010|
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|Comments on Double Trouble||Add Comment|
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From: Silverdale, WA
Sep 18, 2012
|A good lead for a fairly novice crack climber (me). I went up with a double/triple rack up to 3" and placed 11 pieces. An experienced climber would not have needed as many. Since you may (like me) be placing gear in both cracks, be sure to use runners or q-draws to keep the rope flowing straight up the rock.|
May 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I found this to be much harder than any other 5.5 I've ever led. Granted, I'm not a very good crack climber, but I found the route to be almost the opposite of the description. I also led a trad 5.5. in Vantage the week before in my hiking boots. I was certainly glad to have my climbing shoes on this route, and even then I was pretty scared.
The first 2/3 was decent. There was a good hold on the back of the column through the right crack, and decent holds/jams in the left crack and face.
The last 1/3 was very difficult. I have no idea what "positive holds in the crack" the writer is referring to. At this point the right crack turned into an offwidth that I wished I had my #6 for, and did not provide much in the way of jamming or holds. I was able to get gear in the right crack and the small crack in the middle, but I was placing the gear off of crimps. Not what I'd call a 5.5. Technically, I felt like this section was similar to the hard section with the piton on the first pitch of Midway in Leavenworth, but more sustained. That's rated at 5.6, but I also think it's harder.
My husband, who is 6" taller than me (I'm 5'4", although I don't know if height made much of a difference) toproped it and he rated it at 5.8. I'm going with 5.7 to account for the fact that trad climbs are always rated harder than sport.