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Double Trouble 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Heins 1990
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 2,588
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 2, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Double Trouble
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Double Trouble is the most popular route on the Combination blocks for good reason. The sharp arete up the magically stacked blocks begs to be climbed.

Begin on the face and climb up using face and arete holds. A ledge provides a rest midway up but moving back onto the route can prove difficult for some.

Rappel


Protection 

Quickdraws

Bolted anchors at top



Photos of Double Trouble Slideshow Add Photo
Fun times on a hot day on Double Trouble.
Fun times on a hot day on Double Trouble.
Karsten climbs Double Trouble
Karsten climbs Double Trouble
Combination Blocks and the Double Trouble arete.
Combination Blocks and the Double Trouble arete.
Upper portion of Double Drouble.
Upper portion of Double Drouble.
double trouble
double trouble
Nearing the top of the first block.
Nearing the top of the first block.
Rehanah on Double Trouble.
Rehanah on Double Trouble.
Comments on Double Trouble Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2013
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 22, 2006

I found this to be really fun, if a bit greasy. It did feel a bit cruxy getting on to the second block from the ledge.

By David Wade
Oct 11, 2008

Beautiful route, though the layback crux seems mild for a 10b. Two lessons learned: rack all you draws on the left side, and don't bother setting a toprope for the second, the swing is a killer.

By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Feb 14, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I usually don't complain about bolts...but at one point I had one at my foot, one at my waist, and I was clipping a third. Still, a unique climb and pretty fun!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Feb 16, 2010

So you're saying there are too many?! Some of the worst/most dangerous falls I've ever seen were on this route. I guess the problem is more a lack of clipping stances than a lack of bolts.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 11, 2010

Fantastic route. The clip for the first bolt on the second block is pleasantly pumper! The moves above provided the crux for me. Balancy and delicate to be sure. I wonder if it is better not to transfer to the rest above the first block and just go for it as getting reestablished on the route is hard and seems contrived.

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Definitely better not to stand up on top of the first block--you're just setting yourself up for a bunch of downclimbing or an awkward transition.

That said, don't be shy about weaving back and forth between the arete and face. One of my favorite routes at the grade at Smith, and a big reason is that everyone has different beta!

By Heather V.
Dec 18, 2011

this thing is a total greasefest! Ugh!

By richard magill
Jul 3, 2012

Interesting comments, and a really different route at Smith. Greasy slippery feet and nothing for the left hand, but usually a very solid right hand on the arete. There are kind of a lot of bolts for Smith, but on the other hand every clip is a bit dicey since your feet could go at any time. So frequent bolts might make sense, so you don't have too much slack out if you blow a clip...

I liked it.

By Jeremy Y
Jul 28, 2013

I made the mistake of climbing this in 90+ degree heat. The face is in the shade, but even so this thing is so greasy that the feet on the arete were unusable. If it could be cleaned it seems like a really fun route, but I suffered up it.

By another Chad
Sep 18, 2013

I guess I'm just used to slick basalt because Double Trouble didn't feel particularly greasy/dirty/sweaty to me. I mention this because it would be a bummer if someone skipped over this fun climb because of the comments here.


Chad