Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.
70 M rope absolutely suggested.
Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.
|By chris Kalous|
Nov 8, 2006
Cleaned up and beefed up the anchor on this one recently. Thanks to the Climbing Magazine's ARI!
|By Scotty Nelson|
Oct 11, 2011
Kind of sandy on 10/9/2011.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2013
Good line. Note that the unnamed to the left (with Last Day written on the plaque) could be confused with this climb. This one is twin cracks on the right side wall, not the left side wall.