Double Trouble  5.11-

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Lon Black on Apr 4, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Rope gun: Michelle Hale
Photographer:Lon Black

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Description 

Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.

70 M rope absolutely suggested.

Protection 

Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.