Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 5,713 total · 25/month
Shared By: Lon Black on Apr 3, 2005
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


79 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Beautiful climb. If facing the buttress, it is two routes right of Nagasaki and left of Beauty and the Beast. If you don't know where Nagasaki is, it is approximately a 1 minute hike right of Skid Row. Skid Row is a dramatic finger crack with a roof that you have to layback 80% of the route. Don't be misled by heading right and dropping your gear at the first right facing corner twin crack system. Go 20 more meters to the next right facing corner with a twin crack system. Shameless beta follows in case you don't want it: layback the left side crack system at the top rather than working the funky right crack.

70 M rope absolutely suggested.

Protection Suggest change

Bloom's guide calls for 2 0.75, 4 1.0, 4 1.5, 2 2.0, 3 2.5 Friends. We placed 18 pieces. I would go a little heavier on the thin hands sizes (2.0 Friends or red Camalots) probably 4-5 of them.

Photos

loading